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Wallpaper* News Feed: The latest

Copyright (c) 2018 Wallpaper*
Wallpaper* Magazine: design, interiors, architecture, fashion, art - News feed

Last feed update: Monday June 18th, 2018 05:47:28 AM

Olea All Suite Hotel

Sunday June 17th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
For all its greenery and white-sand shores, the Greek island of Zakynthos had suffered from a dearth of luxurious design-led resorts. Praise be, then, for the Olea All Suite Hotel’s arrival on a hillside near Tsilivi Beach.   Olea’s heart is a freeform, 4,000m2 pool whose calm waters provide a permanent air of tranquility. All around are 93 suites arranged in one or two-storey whitewashed blocks, along with gardens and various carob tree-shaded lounges.  Across all communal areas, Athens and Stockholm-based architects Block722 have installed grilled wooden dividers and lots of lush vegetation to blur the indoor and outdoor worlds. Look out also for hanging rattan pod seats and bubble lights.  Soft-hued Mediterranean materials hold sway in each minimal, open-plan suite: think tiled stone floors or solid oak coffee tables. Bamboo fixtures add an additional dash of tropical-island exoticism, as do swim-up suites. Every unit features a...

Zaha Hadid Architects’ Morpheus hotel opens in Macau

Saturday June 16th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
It takes a lot to stand out amid Macau’s garish architectural cornucopia, yet even before the Morpheus hotel opened on the 15 June, it was being touted as a distinctive landmark. Designed by Zaha Hadid Architects, the 150,000-square-metre, 40-storey flagship hotel is the final chapter of Melco Resorts and Entertainment’s sprawling City of Dreams resort development, combining casino gaming, shopping and four other hotels located on the Cotai Strip. The unveiling is a poignant reminder of the untimely death in 2016 of the Pritzker-Prize-winning architect, Dame Zaha Hadid. Morpheus is one of the last projects with which she was intimately involved and bears all the hallmarks of the late architects’ signature style, as do other recently completed projects, such as the Generali Tower in Milan.   The unconventional monolithic structure features a freeform exoskeleton that rises from ground level, wrapping around a pair of towers and a cathedral-like central atrium...

Secret 7” returns with vinyl cover art designed by creative heavyweights, and it’s all up for grabs

Saturday June 16th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Anish Kapoor may command multi-million figures at the auction houses but one lucky individual will walk away with a unique artwork by the Turner Prize winner for just £50 this month – and it’s all for a good cause. The latest edition of Secret 7” in London sees a top billing of creative forces – from artists, to illustrators, graphic designers, musicians and filmmakers – create one-off record sleeves that will be sold at the close of exhibition on 24 June, with profits going to mental health charity Mind. The concept is simple enough: Secret 7” chooses an iconic track from seven artists and presses each one 100 times to 7” vinyl. Contributors create a unique artwork for the track of their choice, with all 700 records exhibited at The Jetty at Greenwich Peninsula. The twist? Buyers won’t know the identity of their sleeve designer until after they’ve purchased their...

Backstage at Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019

Saturday June 16th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Versace S/S 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s

Saturday June 16th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mood board: There’s a knowing chutzpah to Donatella Versace. In everything she does, from her tongue-in-cheek postings on social media with her Jack Russell, Audrey, to her peppy catwalk shows with their glitz, sex and gloss, she is marching the house of Versace into our brave new world. For so long, the label’s menswear has been the archetype for Italian machismo; eschewing stiff sprezzatura, the Versace brand has always catered for the most self-assured of men. For S/S 2019 this manifests into riffs on what power dressing can mean in a #metoo world; the clothes were inspired by what Donatella claimed were many different kinds of men, from the street-style peacocks to boardroom executives.  Sound bite: These loud clothes are for proud men. ‘I conceived these clothes thinking that each of them could find something that perfectly fits his personal style. These are men who do not care about the rules...

Neil Barrett S/S 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s

Saturday June 16th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mood board: Barrett’s concentration on prototypical, masculine uniform is well documented – from his time at Prada in the late 1990s to the global influence of his namesake brand launched in 1999, he has spent years building on a lean, tailored silhouette with a city slick energy. Barrett’s man has an urban vitality. His is a recognisable look, faithful to the tradition of tailoring and the ubiquity of activewear details. S/S 2019 exudes a confidence that manifests in belted coats and sharp, narrow trousers.  Scene setting: The show was staged inside Barrett’s headquarters, the former power plant on Milan’s Via Ceresio. The space, which has provided the backdrop to the brand’s shows since last year, was transformed from a slick concrete stage to a deep, sun-baked hub. All was bright and glowing. The front was draped in warm yellow plastic sheets, while the floor became a reflective surface onto which red...

Marni S/S 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s

Saturday June 16th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mood board: The show notes to Marni’s S/S 2019 menswear show began with this mind-boggling sentence: ‘Imagining Olympics that are imagined imagining.’ This is the charm of creative director Francesco Risso, who joined the brand in 2016 and has since become known for his esoteric, Daliesque approach. The focus of the collection was on the physical, but far from being an ode to the proliferation of sportswear lux that has taken over menswear, Risso characteristically looked the other way, employing a more surreal, playful interpretation of the theme. It was, he said, a fictional Olympic games where all were invited. The clothes were therefore mashed up archetypes of sports uniforms; cricket, tennis, athletics, fight, golf, football, racing, all reassembled and reimagined. Stand out were two hulking, padded bombers in vintage prints that zipped together to form hybrid, screwball styles.  Scene setting: Last season Risso set up the brand’s showroom like...

Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s

Saturday June 16th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mood board: The digital invitation to the Dolce & Gabbana show was a PSA of national pride; guests were sent an e-book tablet that played mood boards for S/S 2019, entitled ‘DNA Evolution’. The invite evoked the duality and passion at the heart of the season. The duo were swept up in a host of Italian iconography and pomp, offering everything from repeat cannoli and penne prints on silk pyjama suits to baroque, quasi-religious embroideries across outerwear and suiting. The collection served as an engaging aide-mémoire of the brand’s long-held philosophy. The look was pastiche pop. Scene setting: The casting of influencers and celebrity offspring at previous shows has unwittingly become a provocative, punk statement – the value and reach of a catwalk show now goes far beyond the seated audience. Here, the focus was on a more diverse clan who each embodied the Dolce & Gabbana spirit in their unique way –...

Ermenegildo Zegna S/S 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s

Saturday June 16th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mood board: Men’s ready-to-wear has been infiltrated by the sorts of well-cut sweatshirts, roomy tailored cargo trousers and logo-laden accessories that were once the hallmarks of outsider/skateboarder cool. The result is a new standard. From wide, longer length shorts to small zipped accessories worn across the chest, a certain West-coast nonchalance has become the blueprint for much of what is presented during the seasonal shows. Designers working with luxury fabrics and fine tailoring have taken note. For spring, artistic director Alessandro Sartori continued to interpret this look within the artisanal vocabulary of Zegna. Entitled ‘Weightlessness’, the collection married the look of sports and performance wear, together with the fabrications of couture tailoring. Scene setting: The show was staged on a narrow catwalk, stretched across the surrounding lake at publisher Mondadori’s extraordinary offices, designed by architect Oscar Niemeyer in 1975. Located close to Linate Airport, the monumental building mirrors the headquarters of the...

Checker Hall

Saturday June 16th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Thirty-five years after the last secret handshake was exchanged, Highland Park’s landmark Masonic Lodge has been given a new lease of life as a theatre and performing arts venue. The LA-based studio Design, Bitches has been careful to preserve original features of the 1923 Renaissance Revival-styled block – a stone’s throw from stained glass specialists Judson Studios and Lummis House – not least the ornamental chandeliers and cherry wood panels. However, it’s their intervention in the restaurant that really catches the eye.  Here, Kvadrat-upholstered banquettes, Maharam Checker fabric and Timorous Beasties Thistle wallpaper are a subtle nod to the building’s past, while Thonet ‘Era’ chairs and Normann Copenhagen ‘Form’ bar-stools alongside a Negro Marquina marble bar top add a jolt of modernity. Executive chef Hovig Agop’s rustic Mediterranean menu, meanwhile, flirts between grilled octopus on a bed of labneh, and a mizuna salad of tangerines and lentils warmed with...

The art of the beautiful game: football moves off pitch and into a Miami museum

Friday June 15th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Football has many guises. It is a pastime where schoolboys scrape knees in a courtyard; a tear-jerking symbol of national pride; a multi-billion dollar industry with corporate interest; a global franchise with a zealot-like devotion to the athletes – the list goes on. And yet, no matter what form it takes, the sport still embodies a common vocabulary, uniting people from different cultures and nations. The show ‘The World’s Game: Fútbol and Contemporary Art’, on view at Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM) until 2 September, explores football’s many definitions. Overlapping with the 2018 FIFA World Cup in Russia, the exhibition investigates soccer’s role in art through the works – including photography, sculpture, and painting – of more than 30 artists such as Andy Warhol, Maria Lassnig, and Antoni Muntadas. Samuel Eto’o, 2010, by Kehinde Wiley, oil on canvas. Courtesy of the artist and Roberts & Tilton, Los Angeles Warhol’s 1978...

Art Basel 2018: tributes to Robert Indiana, high-flying installations and more

Friday June 15th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Joana Vasconcelos thinks big for Jupiter Artland’s tenth birthday

Friday June 15th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Jupiter Artland – the evocatively named sculpture park nestled in a pocket of rural Scotland – has turned a decade old, and opened a fresh season last month with an ambitious new programme. Sprawling across 100 acres of lawns, meadows and woodland on Edinburgh’s fringe, the park is owned, funded and inhabited by collectors Nicky and Robert Wilson. It’s a tough task to find a focal point in such a vibrant, diverse and star-studded space. Perhaps the utopian ‘turf mounds’ of Charles Jencks’ Cells of Life, or Antony Gormley’s tangled Firmament, or even Cornelia Parker’s brooding landscape with Gun and Tree? Perhaps it’s better to home in on Jupiter’s most recent recruits: two illustrious female artists dominating both the contemporary art and Scottish landscape. A new exhibition by Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos tackles themes of gender, socio-politics and intercultural craftsmanship. In 2005, the artist seized attention with her provocative use...

The Retreat at Blue Lagoon Iceland

Friday June 15th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Iceland’s otherworldly volcanic landscape has always needed a truly first-rate luxury resort from which to roam, and the arrival of the Retreat at Blue Lagoon hits all the marks. Located on a private inlet of the titular lagoon, the 62-room property is actually an extension of an earlier complex, but Basalt Architects and Design Group Italia have created a natural transition that blends a concrete superstructure the colour of dark grey lava, with terrazzo, sand, water features and moss. The 62 suites, in particular, feature a quietly rugged mood of walnut and lava surfaces that are dressed with pieces by Antonio Citterio and Patricia Urquiola – though the marquee attraction has to be the view of Iceland’s wildly rocky beauty seen through the floor-to-ceiling windows. In-house restaurant, Moss, delivers a menu sourced from all over the island, whether hand-caught scallops and lamb or reindeer and pearl barley. Lamb is served...

Design highlights at Venice Architecture Biennale

Friday June 15th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Venice isn’t just about architecture right now. Returning for the second time is ‘Design.VE: design walks through Venice’, which runs in parallel with the first month of the international architecture biennale. Organised by Venice Art Factory in collaboration with Generali Italia, this design festival consists of 18 individual exhibitions staged by brands, designers, museums and academic insitutions that take place in palazzos, churches, cultural centres and smaller venues around the lagoon city from Castello to Cannaregio. In addition to this initiative, there are other satellite design shows running in tandem with the architecture biennale. Design may not be the main attraction, but from Memphis surveys to experimental fashion artefacts there’s plenty going on to whet the appetites of design lovers. Here are our highlights. Kosmogonos-Come into a New State of Being, a project by WonderGlass in association with Zuecca Projects It’s a rare treat to see inside the 16th-century...

In pictures: visual inspiration from the W* photography desk

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Master of colour

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
From blue-chip galleries to fresh-faced artists, there’s plenty of variety on offer in the labyrinthine network of booths at Art Basel (14-17 June) – and yet, some of the best exhibits are tucked away in the fair’s VIP lounges. Marking 25 years of partnership with the Swiss art fair, UBS is staging a dedicated exhibition of work by Venezuelan artist and ‘master of colour’ Carlos Cruz-Diez in its lounge. The presentation at Art Basel will feature works from the Swiss bank’s art collection – some of which have never been exhibited in public before – that were part of an architectural intervention by Cruz-Diez at the former UBS building on Flurstrasse in Zurich in the 1970s. Chromo-kinetic elements were integrated into elements of the building so that the halls, corridors and common spaces were brought to life by an ever-changing colour scheme. ‘The Environnement Chromatique [Chromatic Environment] of the UBS...

Leonor Antunes threads Bauhaus, brutalism and Cuban design in new installations

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
In her sublime, site-specific installations, Leonor Antunes pays homage to the practice of forgotten female luminaries in modern architecture, design and art. In Mexico City at the Tamayo Museum, she has reassembled pieces of objects made by the late Cuban designer Clara Porset to create new sculptures for a newly opened solo exhibition. In the 1950s, Porset was widely regarded as the best modern furniture designer in Mexico, where she spent most of her career. In discrepancies with oaxacan textile i and ii, Antunes looks further back, exploring the Mexican huipil – the elaborate tunic traditionally woven and worn by indigenous women – in an imposing grid-like sculpture that refers to their design process. Installation view of ‘Discrepancias con CP Leonor Antunes’ at Museo Tamayo, Mexico City Meanwhile, across the Atlantic at London’s Marian Goodman Gallery, Antunes puts a spotlight on the late English architect and author Alison Smithson who...

What’s next for Kengo Kuma and Associates?

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Style findings: dispatches from the Wallpaper* fashion team

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

The highlights from Pitti Uomo 94 in Florence

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Rolls-Royce’s first SUV offers a very particular take on utility

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
The spirit of being able to go anywhere and do anything still hovers over the auto industry. Until now, Rolls-Royce had been happy to let its history do the talking and not engage in the SUV one-upmanship that everyone from Porsche to Lamborghini has indulged in. But behind the scenes, the UK company had another idea. ‘We kept it a secret for a while,’ admits Giles Taylor, Rolls-Royce’s design director. But in early 2015, the marque acknowledged the existence of a ‘high-sided vehicle’, dubbed ‘Project Cullinan’ – after the Cullinan diamond, 3,106.75 carats of rough gem discovered in South Africa in 1905 and the source of at least nine major stones. The industry waited to see how ultimate luxury could be applied to utility design. Bells and whistles: the signature in-door Rolls-Royce umbrella is a standard feature Along the line, Project Cullinan became simply ‘Cullinan’, a departure...

Time frame: the watch designs that make us tick

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Photographing Alexander McQueen: Ann Ray discusses her creative partnership with the designer

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
‘We met in our mid-twenties in late 1996 in Paris at Givenchy,’ says Ann Ray of her first encounter with the late Alexander McQueen, who that year was made chief designer of the couture maison. The French photographer formed a long-lasting relationship with the renowned London-born designer, and during the course of their creative tenure, captured over 35,000 analogue photographs of him at work; be it a 1998 candid backstage portrait of McQueen alongside model Jaime King, or a line up of spectral sea monster-like models waiting to take to the catwalk at his eponymous ‘Plato’s Atlantis’ 2009 show.  Next month, ‘The Unfinished Lee McQueen,’ an exhibition of Ray’s images of the designer’s career goes on display at Rencontres d’Arles photography festival in France. ‘What mattered when curating this exhibition was to be true, to Lee and to myself; to draw a honest portrait of the man...

OMA’s Lafayette Anticipations in Paris is a ‘curatorial machine’

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Architects often talk about flexible buildings, interiors that can easily adapt to different needs, ready to accommodate several functions. But you’d be hard pressed to find one that took the meaning of this as literally as Rem Koolhaas’ practice OMA did in its most recent project in Paris, Lafayette Anticipations, its first finished building in the French capital. Faced with a 19th-century industrial structure on a relatively modest site in the Marais, and a brief from Fondation d’Entreprise Galeries Lafayette to create an art centre fit to host three to four annual shows, plus performances and workshops, the architects approached the design with a truly open mind. The result, Lafayette Anticipations, is a ‘curatorial machine’ of a building, with an adaptable interior that gives spatial  exibility a new meaning. ‘Paris is replete with prestigious collections, yet no place is absolutely dedicated to the work of artists or to the production...

Artist’s Palate: recipes by your favourite artists and designers

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Under the loupe: our latest watch and jewellery finds

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

The ten intimate boltholes proving that size does matter

Thursday June 14th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Belgian artist Oli-B looks to the skies for NetJets installation

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
For 17 years running, Netjets has partnered with Art Basel to welcome fair visitors with a dedicated lounge space, a celebration of the private aviation company’s commitment to art and design. It has traditionally commissioned artists to create site-specific works for its spaces – and this year was no exception as it called upon painter and street artist Oli-B to create a work inspired by air travel. The Belgian artist’s signature style features graphic compositions of bold colours created through a variety of media, from spray paint to digital and screen-printing techniques. His works to date have included commissions for public spaces, sculptures and products. [embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnF3Fsdy07Q[/embed] For Art Basel this year, Netjets tasked Oli-B with illustrating the experience of traveling on one of its aircrafts. The artist created a large triptych of paintings – hung at the lounge’s entrance – and a series of smaller figures that...

The Wallpaper* bedroom: sleep easy with these boudoir adornments

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

The Wallpaper* dining room: fabulous furnishings for illuminating suppers

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

The Wallpaper* Hallway: how to make a grand entrance with the finest welcoming designs

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

The Wallpaper* living room: make yourself at home with the latest lounge luxuries

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Must-see exhibitions at Design Miami/ Basel 2018

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Design Miami/ Basel returns to the Herzog & de Meuron-designed fairgrounds for its 13th edition, presenting its traditional mix of new creative projects, iconic designs from the past and conceptual interpretations of the genre. With 43 international galleries presenting work from names of modern and contemporary design, as well as ten special Curio presentations and more large-scale installations, this edition once again offers a magnificent celebration of culture and commerce. Here are our highlights to look out for. (Con)temporary Home by ETEL This year’s Collectors Lounge is created by Brazilian brand ETEL and designed by Italian architecture firm Superluna. The space is designed to feel like a domestic environment, encased in a steel frame which gently separates the lounge area from the bustling fair. Inside, contemporary and historical Brazilian design pieces are arranged in conversation with photographs by Ruy Teixeira, which complete the space. Among the iconic furniture offering guests...

The Wallpaper* House: furnish your house with the click of a mouse

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Juergen Teller captures football fans as World Cup frenzy reaches fever pitch

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Juergen Teller’s new exhibition ‘Zittern auf dem Sofa’, which recently launched in Moscow to coincide with the 2018 FIFA World Cup, translates as ‘trembling on the sofa’. For those who don’t genuflect to the God of football, Teller’s title might seem a little over the top. How could men kicking a ball insight such an overwhelming physical response? Can football really make you tremble? Well, for many of the estimated four billion people who will regularly watch the World Cup over the next six weeks, Teller’s new photography series will make perfect, relatable sense. It’s difficult to express how deeply a football fan emotionally invests in their team – the frustration-laced anguish of a loss, the utopia of an unlikely win, the broken rollercoaster ride en route. At Moscow’s Garage Museum of Contemporary Art, the iconic German photographer will present a series of video portraits – of himself, his children...

American artist Sarah Sze pulls apart her creative process

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
The American sculptor Sarah Sze creates fractured things, exploding or imploding or perhaps both. Her works, built of everyday debris and found objects, wire and sticky tape, are site-specific small universes with their own time frames and lines of energy, spiralling out and often spilling beyond their allotted space. For her new show at Victoria Miro’s London gallery in Islington, Sze does something unusual, flattening her centrifugal forces and pinning them to a wall. They still contain multitudes but here, in a series called Afterimage, much of it put together on site, she pulls apart her creative process, her workings out, ruminations and reflections. Afterimage, Yellow Blow Out (Painting in its Archive), 2018, by Sarah Sze, oil paint, acrylic paint, archival paper, UV stabilisers, adhesive, tape, ink and acrylic polymers, shellac, water based primer on wood. © Sarah Sze. Courtesy of the artist and Victoria Miro, London/Venice Unpacking her impulses...

Architects’ Directory 2018: emerging talent from across the globe

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

We go people watching at Annabelle Selldorf’s 42 Crosby

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Annabelle Selldorf’s name is architectural shorthand for restrained elegance, where subtle spaces are brimming with life, textures and quality materials. The German-born, New York-based architect is as known for her art projects – such as the Frick Collection makeover and galleries for David Zwirner – as her residential, the latest of the latter is 42 Crosby Street, an ode in glass and steel that sits on a relatively quiet corner in the heart of SoHo. The development, created for Atlas Capital Group, features just ten apartments; a boutique selection of residential interiors that focus on light, materials and generosity of space. The top unit is a striking duplex penthouse. This sense of space is not confined to the living areas. The apartments have the option of a parking spot underneath the development, which adds an extra layer of ease and luxury for the residents. Meanwhile, retail options have been placed on the...

Artist Nick Cave moves to a new beat in NYC – and you’re invited to join the dance line

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
The Park Avenue Armory’s summer installations have long been a highlight of the New York art season. In the past decade, the industrial grandeur of the 55,000 sq ft Wade Thompson Drill Hall has served as a stage for a wide range of installations and performances, including Paul McCarthy’s Disney-inspired ‘WS’; site-specific concerts from The XX, Taryn Simon’s ‘An Occupation of Loss’; and ‘Hansel & Gretel’, the shared effort from Jacques Herzog, Pierre de Meuron and Ai Weiwei. Joining the ranks this year is the Chicago-based artist Nick Cave who has created ‘The Let Go’ – a celebratory performance that invites visitors to participate in a shared, dance-based cathartic experience. Cave has transformed the storied venue into a colourful dance-hall, with two 40ft tall curtains festooned with shimmering Mylar streamers that represent the sense of liberty that takes over when people simple let themselves go. Armed with dancers, live...

Artist’s Palate: Alicja Kwade’s green papaya salad

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Everyday objects laden with metaphor, linear objects drooping against walls, and mirror images with deliberate imperfections lend a hallucinatory quality to the works of Alicja Kwade, unsettling our understanding of science and the meaning of reality. In happy contrast, her dish of choice is a simple green papaya salad. ‘The first time I made it was during an artist residency for L’Association Martiniquaise pour l’Art Contemporain in Martinique,’ she says. ‘Their small boathouse is the most beautiful place on earth I know.’ Ingredients Green papaya Chilli Garlic clove Lime Coconut oil (or another neutral oil) Salted peanuts Recipe Grate the green papaya flesh, chop the chilli finely, crush or cut the garlic, and mix them with the juice of a lime. Add some oil and sprinkle some chopped peanuts on top. § As originally featured in the July 2018 issue of Wallpaper* (W*232)

John Pawson transforms a former Tel Aviv hospital into The Jaffa hotel

Wednesday June 13th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Jaffa, the oldest neighbourhood in modern-day Tel Aviv-Yafo, is famed as the port of departure in the biblical story of Jonah and the whale. Today, cranes punctuate the skyline, scaffolding is as synonymous with the area as its golden cobbled streets, and there have long been gripes that Jaffa would eventually share a similar fate to the man in the tale and be swallowed up – in this case by glossy hotel and residential developments. Thankfully, most recent projects have been sympathetic to the area’s historic character and distinct aesthetic, the latest being The Jaffa Tel Aviv, a 120-room luxury hotel and 32 residences close to the district’s ancient centre. A renovated 19th-century hospital combined with a substantial new-build, the hotel is a cross-continental collaboration: the original structure, crumbling and deserted, was purchased by US-based RFR Holding’s Aby Rosen, who saw its potential and enlisted British designer John Pawson to...

Porky Hefer’s Endangered collection explores art, sustainability and wildlife conservation

Tuesday June 12th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
South African artist Porky Hefer’s ‘Endangered’ collection seeks both to protect and protest. Presented by SFA Advisory and Southern Guild, and in collaboration with the Leonardo DiCaprio Foundation (LDF), Hefer’s exhibition at Design Miami/ Basel from 12-17 June consists of larger-than life seating pods – all of which depict endangered species. The tactile sculptures, an orangutan, polar bear, blue whale, sloth, and great white shark, are huge and enveloping. Appearing as finely crafted and delicately embroidered teddy-bears (similarly soft and endearing), the sculptures are made of all eco-friendly and recycled materials and are handcrafted by artisans in Cape Town. Hefer’s project, from concept to stitching to its sale proceeds, is committed to promoting environmental sustainability. The presence of LDF, an NGO focused on wildlife conservation and climate change, characterises this project as a creative way to help the public engage with the realities of wildlife endangerment. To help materialise this...

A Swedish design pop-up store opens inside a concrete space in LA

Tuesday June 12th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
The dust from the LA Design Festival may be just settling, but at its hub at the Row DTLA, Poketo’s ever-changing Project Space is still abuzz. All this month, the Los Angeleno design destination is hosting a pop-up for the Swedish label Hem, which has brought a selection of its design-centric, yet accessible line of furniture and homeware to the West Coast for the first time. ‘As an established destination in the Los Angeles design scene, we are thrilled to debut our Los Angeles pop-up in partnership with Poketo,’ says Hem Founder and CEO, Petrus Palmér. ‘We’ve had our sights set on opening a physical retail space here for some time, as we knew from our online sales that it was a key market for us, so it was just a matter of finding the right venue.’ Installed within Poketo Project Space’s austere concrete space, Hem’s rich and...

Study session

Tuesday June 12th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Herno first presented at Pitti Uomo in 1971, and last night, the Italian label chose the platform’s 94th iteration as the location for celebrating its illustrious 70-year anniversary. The label is renowned for its innovative approach to outdoors wear (think ultralight reversible down jackets and water-and-wind-resistant cyclewear) and in a location space at Leopolda Station, erected a two floor library space lined with scaffolding, to showcase a memorabilia-filled archive of its history.  Conceived under the creative direction of Anomalia Studio, the space featured an array of Herno’s signature coats hanging from moving hooks, and documenting how the style has evolved over 70 years (think pieces which are foulard-lined, double-breasted or in cashmere). It was also populated with memorabilia from the house: never before seen film footage and editorials, advertising campaigns and inspiration images, and even the winning sports car raced by Herno founder Giuseppe Marenzi at the ‘Rally della Moda’ in...

Californian dream: Gluckman Tang’s minimalist poolside guesthouse in La Jolla

Tuesday June 12th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
There’s something about the pool house typology that is inherently Californian. It might be the open spaces and water element that it implies, or perhaps the low scale, single-storey structure that often references modernist gems, such as the region’s iconic Case Study Houses of the 1950s and 1960s. Either way, the pool/guest house genre often conjures up images of lazy Californian afternoons and elegant Slim Aarons-style pool parties; which is exactly what this new completion by New York-based Gluckman Tang brings to mind. The stylish guesthouse, which also serves as a pool house, has been recently completed in La Jolla, California, as part of the grounds of a larger spec residence. Elegant and small-scale, the building features strong geometry and clean, minimalist lines, which make for suitably subtle drama and confident architecture. Board-formed concrete on the outside creates a warm, tactile feel and visually links the guest house to the...

Brutalist icon Preston Bus Station gets facelift by John Puttick Associates

Tuesday June 12th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
You’d be hard pressed to find a British brutalist icon outside London that is as instantly recognisable as Preston Bus Station. The project, originally completed in 1969 to a design by BDP, is Grade-II listed, but was in need of a refresh; enter John Puttick Associates who won an open competition for its prestious restoration work in 2015. Now, the concrete icon has just been relaunched after its thorough facelift by the young London-based practice. The architects maintained the building’s iconic linearity and strong geometries, by carefully restoring its existing fabric. Its features were lovingly returned to their original material and colour palette, while the interior was cleaned and opened up. The entry points were consolidated into a single, flowing entrance hall, emphasising pedestrian functions – as opposed to the structure’s original focus on vehicle use – to bring the space into the 21st century. Some of the concourse level glazing was replaced and...

Luggage leaders: the latest travel companions to get carried away with

Tuesday June 12th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Aircraft carry-ons, overnight bags, passport holders and travel pouches; there’s a plethora of travel companions out there. From transparent cabin bags to personalised pull alongs, we present our curation of the finest travel pieces, guaranteed to generate desire in the departure lounge and beyond... Rimowa In our March 2018 issue (W*228), we took an exclusive look at the new visual identity of Rimowa, under the directorship of the German house’s new then 25-year old CEO Alexandre Arnault. Rimowa, which was acquired by LVMH in January 2017, has recently showcased a series of fashion collaborations, including April's sellout design with Supreme. Now, the label has released the second iteration of its collaboration with Fendi; a cabin trolly in two new blue and red colourways. Its brushed aluminium case boasts a double ‘F’ logo, with an eye-catching buckled belt. The brand has also launched a distinct suitcase design in collaboration with Virgil Abloh’s Off-White...

Calvin Klein’s hayrolling display of quilted Cassina Feltri armchairs at Design Miami/ Basel

Tuesday June 12th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
This year, a change of structure at Design Miami/ Basel allowed visitors to navigate from the fair to Unlimited, Art Basel’s exhibition displaying large-scale artworks. Marking this structural change and connecting the two shows was one of this edition’s most special projects, serving as a gateway between art and design, celebrating both. Calvin Klein made its Design Miami debut with the project, titled ‘An Expansive International Landscape’, featuring a combination of design, culture and craftsmanship curated by chief creative officer Raf Simons. For his installation, Simons focused on Feltri, an armchair created by Italian designer Gaetano Pesce for Cassina in 1987 as an ironic take on a royal throne. The chair’s shape features a thin wool-felt structure, created using a special technique that allows the base (infused with thermosetting resin) to be structurally firm, while the top is soft and enveloping, two flaps of the material sticking out into a now-renowned shape...

Rites: top beauty picks for the design-conscious in 2018

Tuesday June 12th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Calling all beauty gurus – here’s your definitive guide to the best luxury beauty products of the year. We’re on the lookout for natural solutions that promote a healthy, comfortable (and stylish) lifestyle. Featuring elite nutrition and skincare supplements, contemporary takes on traditional razors and ethical beauty products formed from natural ingredients, we have our eyes peeled for items that bring out your best. From top perfumers including Buly 1803, to global beauty stalwarts like Aesop, our digital beauty directory has it all...

9 designers, artists and activists changing the tide on ocean sustainability

Tuesday June 12th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Plastic. A truck load of the moldable, powerful, indestructible stuff is dumped into our oceans every minute. Despite positive moves in the right direction – plastic straws have finally earned pariah status; plastic bags come with fines; big brands are beginning to follow in the vanguard footsteps of zero-plastic movements – the ocean is still choked with around six billion tonnes of toxic packaging, waste and pollution. Creative powerhouses (artists, designers, makers) have a responsibility – and an opportunity – to set the agenda for a sustainable future, just as much as our politicians and environmental scientists. Creators can visually explain why sustainable design is important. Here’s eight creative forces you need to know about, who are doing just that. Parley for the Oceans [embed]https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=3&v=kPE5rHTr5qs[/embed] Front-runners in ocean-conscious design, Parley for the Oceans is a global network of creators who together raise awareness of the beauty...

Retro revival: Mark Janson’s 1960s weekend home gets a modern twist

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mark Janson is no stranger to good design. After graduating from Parsons School of Design in 1982, Janson joined architect Steven Holl on a number of projects like the ‘Bridge of Houses’, a kind of a precursor to New York’s High Line. Today, as partner of architecture and design firm Janson Goldstein, he’s responsible for sleek spaces like Holt Renfrew’s Vancouver flagship and Neiman Marcus’s impending outpost in Manhattan’s Hudson Yards. Now, Janson’s sharing one of his most personal projects yet; his renovated weekend home in Stanford, New York. The 2,000 sq. ft. space was built in 1965 by a member of the Cooper Union. Though the mid-century style is a rarity in the region, it’s exactly what attracted Janson to the home. ‘That’s why I had to buy it,’ he explains. ‘It was designed to view the landscape from the interior out. Most of the homes are...

Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners reveals 3 World Trade Center in New York

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners (RSHP) and Silverstein Properties are celebrating the completion of 3 World Trade Center, the second tallest building in the World Trade Center site and the very first built work by the architects in New York City. The tower, spanning 80 floors and some 1,000 ft, sits at 175 Greenwich Street, right at the heart of the Financial District in downtown Manhattan. Combining retail – on the lower five storeys – and office space, the commercial building is the third one to complete on site by the same developers. Built in glass and steel, the tower features state-of-the-art design, bearing the signature light and elegant, yet confident and experienced touch of RSHP. Visible exterior bracing not only adds to a balanced, well articulated facade and volume composition, but it also allows for column-free interiors and flexible spaces inside, to suit a variety of businesses. The retail element sits...

Take a seat: City Benches winning designs revealed during LFA

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
The City of London is one of this year’s London Festival of Architecture’s (LFA) key focus areas, and one of the hub’s big flagship events has just been unveiled; the winning designs of the City Benches competition that took place earlier this spring have just been installed at their respective sites. The winners, a series of one-off benches, were selected via an open-call competition that sought to reward young, dynamic practices that submitted creative designs in a range of materials and styles. The process involved the winning designs being realised and installed in a specific location – designs were matched with sites by the organisers. The nine selected pieces have now been unveiled at a variety of London locations, including London Bridge Station, the Royal Exchange, the Bloomberg Arcade, One New Change, 150 Cheapside, Bow Church Yard, Fen Court, Creechurch Place, and Jubilee Gardens. The studios behind the imaginative creations...

Chiharu Shiota weaves past, present and future at an 18th-century Yorkshire chapel

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
When she was nine, Japanese artist Chiharu Shiota saw the burnt-out, soundless remains of her neighbour’s piano after a house fire. The image stayed with her. Now, it has inspired a haunting new work, rendered in her preferred medium, webs of twisted thread. ‘Beyond Time’ – an immersive installation spun from the flagstones to the rafters in the deconsecrated, 18th-century chapel at Yorkshire Sculpture Park – is divergent from Shiota’s previous works, in that it uses pure, white thread instead of the gothic reds and blacks she earlier favoured. Traditionally, white represents mourning in Japan, but for Shioto, it has a connection to ‘eternity’; her belief that entering into death is just another phase of being.Exterior of the Chapel at Yorkshire Sculpture Park. © The artist and VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn, 2018. Courtesy of Yorkshire Sculpture Park. Photography: © Jonty Wilde Emitting from a cast iron piano in the centre of the...

L’Oréal’s new Paris HQ designs wellness into the workday

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
From Google’s expansive Silicon Valley campus (where it’s bring-your-dog-to-work-day, everyday), to Lego’s Denmark Office with slides instead of lifts, companies are paying closer attention to how design and space influence their employees’ experience, and therefore, the company’s productivity. The new L’Oréal HQ, Seine 62, with interiors designed by Maison Sarah Lavoine, follows suit – the workspace is focused on maximising happiness and wellbeing. Situated on the banks of La Seine in Levallois-Perret in Paris, the 48,000 sq m office space has welcomed 2,000 staff members. Lavoine hopes the HQ’s design will ‘bring a bit of joy into people’s lives’. To cement the people-centred philosophy of Seine 62, Maison Sarah Lavoine studio adapted its expertise in residential design and hospitality for the office space, explicitly reframing design techniques intended for leisure, entertainment and comfort for a work environment. By teaming up with Mobilitis, L’Oréal’s architects, Maison Sarah Lavoine was...

The artists bringing their candid vision to queer photography

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Tom Jackson, a fifty-something dump-truck driver and self-styled ‘redneck’ living in an insalubrious basement studio, made Netflix viewers everywhere weep when he was made over and reunited with his lost love by Queer Eye’s Fab Five. When Monica Beverly Hillz came out as transgender on RuPaul’s Drag Race, a first for a competitor, the tears flowed. The queer community have made other ways of seeing sexuality, gender and bodies possible, now, perhaps partly down to the success of shows like RuPaul and Queer Eye, those non-binary ways of seeing are sashaying their way into the mainstream conscience. Yet it wasn’t so long ago that the streets of New York were raging with the energy of the Stonewall Riots, and it was only in July 2011 that the state officiated its first same-sex marriage. It often takes longer to change attitudes than to change laws – which is where art comes...

London Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019 Editor’s Picks

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

A Moscow shop is transformed into a micro-brewery inspired by Russian avant-garde art

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Channeling Russian avant-garde artist Kazimir Malevich, Molokovo Design has transformed a neoclassical Moscow store into a micro-brewery and bottle shop. The local firm drew the space’s monochrome colour scheme from the fundamental principles of Suprematism (an abstract art movement championed by Malevich) dedicated to pure artistic feeling and basic geometric forms. The idea was to create an imaginative, open space where light sources and colour will alter visual perceptions of the bar’s three-dimensional geometric furnishings, which are Suprematist in composition and mono-material in implementation. As well as Malevich’s practise, the designers drew from his personal interest in celestial exploration. Rechristened Galaxy Bar, a deep-blue interior is illuminated by a snaking, polyurethane-coated neon pipe-light tracing constellations overhead. A moon-grey marble bar and industrially-edged wooden booths complete the look. ‘The idea was to create a pure, bright space that facilitates a release of the mind and the expansion of human perceptions, as...

Swarovski’s Designers of the Future explore artificial dreaming, crystal conversation and more

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Swarovski presents the next instalment of its Designers of the Future initiative, an award supporting emerging talent who exemplify innovation in design. Unveiled at Design Miami/ Basel, this year’s recipients are Frank Kolkman, Study O Portable and Yosuke Ushigome who have responded to the theme of ‘smart living’ with a trio of installations which apply crystal technologies to our living environments, focusing on accessibility, sustainability and interactivity. Experimental Dutch designer Frank Kolkman’s ‘Dream Machine’ is an immersive crystal light and sound installation which synchronises with human brainwaves to provoke a state of deep relaxation or ‘artificial dreaming’. Building on the works of 1950/60s avant-garde artists such as Brion Gysin, Tony Conrad and Bernhard Leitner, Kolkman collaborated with London-based sound architect Sam Conran on the project, who has created a bespoke 3D composition based on brainwave stimulation, which uses binaural beats for a sound design inspired by diffraction patterns in X-ray...

QO

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Housed in a purpose-built 21-storey ‘living building’ constructed from one-third recycled concrete and clad in over 1,600 responsive aluminium panels that react to regulate internal temperatures, Amsterdam’s newest hotel QO has set a new sustainability bar. Its name is more of a logo, inspired by the closed-loop recycling concept, of which the hotel has adopted an internal grey water system and, more notably, an aquaponic rooftop greenhouse, which serves the bar and restaurant below with over 70 varieties of herbs, vegetables, edible flowers and even fish. QO’s design reflects its innovative ethos thanks to local firm Tank, which has created a striking first impression with a soaring triple-height lobby, a suspended staircase and an elongated oval bar. Tucked behind that, Persijn restaurant shows off the rooftop’s bounty with dishes such as the Persijn Salad and Josper-grilled vegetables that capture the principals of executive chef Alexander Brouwer and the modern...

Backstage at London Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Frida: a life adorned

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
From the intricately coiffured hair, carefully applied makeup, multiple earrings, necklaces and rings, down to the flounces of her long Tehuana skirts, Frida Kahlo’s heavily constructed image retains a powerful resonance. Her identity was so tied up in her chosen decorations – even her gold teeth were studded with diamonds – that when the artist was on her deathbed in Mexico, age 47, her nurse knew the time was near when Kahlo could no longer muster the energy to adorn herself. Claire Wilcox, senior curator of fashion at the Victoria and Albert Museum and co-curator of its new exhibition ‘Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up’, reflects that Kahlo’s unique look was a construct, an armour against the physical frailty she suffered. The artist had polio as a child and then, at the age of 18, was involved in a devastating tram accident that would leave her in abject, restrictive pain for the rest...

Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY S/S 2019 London Fashion Week Men’s

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Scene setting: After only three seasons showing on the official London Fashion Week schedule, Charles Jeffrey’s performative and theatrical runway shows have become one of the most anticipated on the menswear scene. Last season, the designer sent out a pack of ghoulish figures dancing wildly to the drumbeat of The Prodigy’s Firestarter, a comment on his rage towards his hometown of Glasgow. For S/S 2019, the designer teamed up with Gary Card on a low-fi tin foil show set resembling a metallic alien planet, with giant apples hanging from the ceiling, and body-suit clad aliens attached to cloud-like tubes in the sky. Charles Jeffrey has long championed queer culture and his imaginative, hyperbolic and silhouette-distorting designs explore notions of identity and creative freedom. For S/S 2019 he was looking to an imagined universe, ‘a serene alternative reality’, all wrapped up in shining tin foil. Mood board: Charles Jeffrey has documented his...

Artful lodger: Jacques Garcia transforms a former church into L'Oscar hotel

Monday June 11th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
An abandoned church on London’s Southampton Row has been transformed into the 39-room L’Oscar. Parisian architect Jacques Garcia has conjured an ornate interior in a bold palette of deep purple, red, petrol blue and canary yellow, with evidence of the hotel’s ecclesiastical past cleverly woven into the design.  There are original details from tiled floors to fireplaces that feature terracotta panels that depict scenes from the bible. Sharp-eyed guests will spot elements from these panels creatively reinterpreted by Garcia in details around the hotel such as the 495 individual Lalique-style birds that are used as light fittings throughout the hotel or the flora and fauna that is embroidered into bespoke fabrics and furniture designed by Watts of Westminster.  Meanwhile, the building’s Grade-II listed chapel now houses a restaurant run by chef Tony Fleming and a bar is installed where the organ used to be.

Collectors’ corner: auction news

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Rome resurrected

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
A collaboration between curator Oscar Humphries and Paris’ Galerie Chenel, 'Origins: Design from the Ancient World' is a display of architectural remains from Roman times. The collection marks the debut of Roman-era pieces at Design Miami/Basel, and focuses on Greco-Roman artefacts, design and architectural elements from 200 BC to approximately 200 AD, including columns, capitals, urns, and fragmentary sections from interiors and furniture, some of which are seen in this film. ‘All of the sculptures are definitely carrying with them the passage of time,’ antiquarian and gallerist Ollivier Chenel muses in this film. The project  ‘was conceived to bring this material to a new audience and to give it a new context that demonstrates the fundamental synergy of great design from any period, as well as its profound differences,’ Humphries explains. The materials bring to mind contemporary design movements, from postmodern to Art Deco, their white marble almost...

Chalayan S/S 2019 London Fashion Week Men’s

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mood board: Hussein Chalayan has never shied away from dense or intellectual subject matter, and for S/S 2019, the designer looked to the Abduction of the Sabine Women, an incident of mass abduction in Roman mythology, for inspiration. This tricky and troubling myth was evoked in beautifully constructed garments that hinted at pulling and tearing: jackets with collars which hung back on the body, t-shirts and check waistcoats with ruches and jackets with elasticated waistbands. Amongst the plethora of performance wear on London’s S/S 2019 catwalk, it was a refreshing and well-cut take on a more refined and tailored wardrobe.  Finishing touches: accessories and ready-to-wear were amalgamated into one piece, in a bid to empower the wearer and make them immovable. Burnt orange shorts, cotton shirts and hooded sweatshirts had cross body bags sewn into their construction, a distinct and functional take on the hybrid styles that dominated the men’s...

Martine Rose S/S 2019 London Fashion Week Men’s

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Scene setting: Martine Rose brought new meaning to the open-air show concept for S/S 2019, holding her menswear show at St Leonard’s Square, a residential street in North London’s Chalk Farm. Fashion and inclusivity have never been bedfellows, but Rose bought a new sense of community to her offering, the street’s residents and children sitting front row, watching from windows, sipping from bottles of champagne and enjoying a cigarette in the evening sun. The show’s neighbourhood location reflected the theme of Rose’s show, a love letter to London and its multicultural population. Mood board: the runway pounded to a up-tempo mash up of Nineties classics, like Massive Attack’s ‘Unfinished Symphony’, the garage classic ‘Gabriel’ by Roy Davis Jr ft Peven Everett, the Stone Roses, and a blaring range of ska, jungle and drum & bass. Rose’s collection nodded to a lad who has matured through different dancefloors and club scenes...

Cottweiler S/S 2019 London Fashion Week Men's

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mood board: the mirrored cardboard press release on the benches at the Cottweiler show — one evoking a folded foil sun reflector — hinted at the sense of sun-drenched spiritualism behind the London-based brand’s S/S 2019 collection. Designers Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty, whose innovative sportswear aesthetic won the label the menswear crown at 2017’s Woolmark Prize, imagined a man embarking on a spiritual journey, preoccupied with the pure symbolism of the lotus flower, camping on beaches and worshipping the sun. True to their aesthetic the designers presented sleek perforated nappa leather tracksuits, tiny shorts and tracksuits in lilacs and yellows, lotus flower print crop tops and merino knit vests interwoven with massage beads, all presented to a meditation soundtrack of crashing waves, which crescendoed into pumping garage. Finishing touches: the accessories emphasised a tongue in cheek take on Cottweiler’s quest for inner calm. Alongside belly chains, beach mats and beaded bracelets...

Kiko Kostadinov S/S 2019 London Fashion Week Men’s

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mood board: there was a lot to unpack in the inspiration behind Kiko Kostadinov’s third menswear show. The designer looked to a piece by German artist Martin Kippenberger titled ‘The Happy End of Franz Kafka’s “Amerika”’, which imagines its protagonist applying for a job at ‘the biggest theatre in world.’ For S/S 2019, Kostadinov took the concept of a communal job interview, and translated its location into an imaginary Bengal town location on the Ganges. His characters represented men from a cross section of society arriving at the interview. This culminated in a collection that fused a variety of codes, like sportswear and utility with a more bohemian outlook. Performance wear has dominated the London men’s catwalks, with the neon of high vis jackets already the covetable hue. It was refreshing to see utility and sports-focused silhouettes injected with a folkloric warmth and an imaginative backstory, recalling the shores...

MAN S/S 2019 London Fashion Week Men’s

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Scene setting: With its vintage markets, eclectic food stalls and multicultural heritage, Brick Lane in East London is a vibrant example of the city’s multifarious character. The Old Truman Brewery was the perfect location for MAN – a platform for pioneering menswear talent founded in 2005 – to stage its seasonal show. On the line up for S/S 2019: Stefan Cooke, who presented its second season on the MAN catwalk, Rottingdean Bazaar and Art School, who were both showing for the third time. Mood board: Stefan Cooke and his partner Jake Burt relish in the mundane, subverting everyday items with their humour and embellishment. For S/S 2019 we saw trousers and jeans with marabou trim waistbands, cricket jumpers woven from buttons, tartan jackets and trousers cinched with Perspex discs and boasting Lord Fauntleroy frills. The accessories were smart and witty: white shoppers printed with images of vintage bags. Why have...

Bites: global food finds for design-minded diners in 2018

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Calling all culinary creators – we’re hot on the scent of top treats and cooking contraptions for design-minded diners in 2018. Whether you’re a haute-design chef, restaurant regular, or a microwave-marvel, here lies your curated list of the very best in global cuisine news. Look out for colourful cutlery by Yali, alcoholic alternatives from Borough Wines and Tales’s location-translating chocolate bars. Tuck in…

What to see and where: exhibitions from the Wallpaper* architecture desk

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Serpentine Pavilion designed by Frida Escobedo opens for 2018

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
The Serpentine Pavilion 2018 designed by Frida Escobedo is unveiled at the Serpentine Galleries in London’s Kensington Gardens. The emerging Mexican architect is the youngest ever participant, and the second solo female architect to design a pavilion after Zaha Hadid. Born in 1979 in Mexico City, Escobedo established a studio in her hometown 12 years ago. She has become known for her championing of Mexican design inspirations and practices. The pavilion takes the form of a courtyard enclosed by dark latticed walls, intended as a play on the celosia – a common trope in Mexican architecture that allows breeze to flow through buildings. Serpentine Pavilion 2018, designed by Frida Escobedo, Serpentine Gallery, London (15 June – 7 October 2018). Photography: 2018 Iwan Baan. Image courtesy of Frida Escobedo, Taller de Arquitectura ‘We wanted to create this closed courtyard that is inside the park, which in turn is inside the city of London; a Russian doll of interiors...

Sharon Wauchob S/S 2019 London Fashion Week Men’s

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mood board: the London Fashion Week Men’s schedule has some notable gaps for S/S 2019. Craig Green has moved to Pitti as a guest designer for spring, Wales Bonner has missed a season, while JW Anderson has unified his men’s and women’s offering into a co-ed show on the women’s schedule in September. One excellent addition to the schedule is Irish designer Sharon Wauchob, who presented her first men’s and women’s show on the men’s schedule after leaving London women’s last season. Presenting her collection in the holy confines of All Saints Church, it was a praiseworthy debut; one featuring sharp tailoring, outerwear and refined evening looks. For men, think loose tailoring, trench coats and shirts with distinctive creases and glittering finishes, and for women think fringed dresses, layered with nylon trench coats and tuxedo jackets, or shirts pressed into pleats with tasselled trousers. Team work: Wauchob worked with Savile...

In the frame: standout designs from around the globe

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
All year round, we journey through design weeks, fairs and galleries scouring for the most refined, innovative and spectacular designs from across the globe. From sublime exhibition sets and nifty product launches to compelling collaborations and sophisticated new brands, we bring you our guide of the best in design for 2018... Alysi boutique by Studiopepe Housed within a building from the 1600s in Brera, Milan is a new boutique for Italian fashion brand Alysi, designed by Studiopepe. The contemporary interior uses a muted palette and an architectural arch motif to shape a feminine salon space, something that the design duo are experts in following their private members club installation at Salone del Mobile this year. Almost an installation itself, the boutique is divided into three sections, connected by the an archway tunnel joining the shopping areas, together with a mixture of copper, plaster and marble. At the end of the...

Oliver Spencer S/S 2019 London Fashion Week Men’s

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Scene setting: In May, Oliver Spencer unveiled Reverie – an immersive floral installation in his Berwick Street boutique in London, created in collaboration with the British artist Wolfgang Buttress. The artwork celebrated the beauty of the natural environment and championed sustainability within the fashion industry; a cause Spencer also pioneered for S/S 2019. As part of his show set, the designer teamed up once more with Buttress, creating a large-scale projection with scenes of rolling meadows. As each model strode onto the catwalk, images of lush grasses and colourful flowers were projected onto their clothing. Mood board: Spencer has always championed environmental and socially responsible practices, and the designer has spent the last hear honing his sustainable credentials even more. For S/S 2019, his collection championed flax-made linen and organic cottons, in organic tones including indigo, ochre, charcoal and mauve. There were checked seersucker suits, polo shirts, double-breasted jackets and...

Matthew Miller S/S 2019 London Fashion Week Men’s

Sunday June 10th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mood board: Matthew Miller, who titled his S/S 2019 collection ‘Paradise Lost’ presented his latest offering eight floors below ground level in a Chinatown car park. ‘It’s about a new underground scene,’ the designer explained. ‘This generation is into recycling and technology, the collection is a more positive approach to problems.’ Brexit, Trump, and the threat of nuclear disaster; there are problems aplenty, and Miller’s protective collection culminated in tailoring in foils and rubber, bulletproof-style vests in leather and highlighter hues, and swathing tracksuits. Team work: sustainability has been at the forefront of London designers’ thinking: take Oliver Spencer who presented an ethically conscious collection an hour later than Miller, or sustainability-focused burgeoning talent Bianca Saunders who made her London debut for S/S 2019. Miller marked his collection with a sustainable collaboration with sportswear brand K-Swiss. ‘I found a warehouse with 10,000 old band t-shirts in it destined...

Friedrich Kunath on pushing paint and why he loves the ‘empty promise’ of Los Angeles

Saturday June 9th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
‘There is this sentence in my head on loop: “I want to go home – but I am home,”’ muses Friedrich Kunath during a walkthrough of his first solo exhibition, ‘Where is the Madness that You Promised Me’, at Antwerp’s Tim Van Laere Gallery. Born in East Germany, the artist has been living in Los Angeles for just over a decade. ‘I am constantly between these two points. There is always a question of “homelessness”.’ Having relocated to Los Angeles in 2007, Kunath spent a year driving through his new city, accumulating Americana knick-knacks from thrift stores. ‘[Moving] is such a big change. When you’re in Germany and you paint, it’s something completely different. Now you’re on an empty canvas culturally. Something was bound to happen, I just didn’t know what.’ While the multidisciplinary artist dabbles in painting, sculpture and drawing, he became preoccupied with airbrushing following...

Primo’s

Saturday June 9th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Primo’s, the older sophisticated sister to Mr. Fong’s – a favourite after-hours Chinatown drinking establishment – is NYC’s latest offering in elevated hotel bars. Discovered inside The Frederik Hotel in Lower Manhattan, partner Aisa Shelley inspires the spirit of summer holiday through Mediterranean styles of drinking with Spritzes, Negroni’s, anisette, and endless cups of coffee. Part classic cocktails, part reimagined European aperitifs served with midnight pasta, and coconut chili anise vodka highballs, Primo’s atypical bar menu reveals its playful, one-of-a-kind mindset intended for a plush haven for drinks and small bites before and after meals.  With nods to art deco, mid-century modern, and a Seventies Italian aesthetic, designer Camilla Deterre sourced distinct sets of vintage lamps and chrome-framed chairs from the 1950s and 60s, reupholstering them with velvet cushions and pairing them with custom-made terrazzo tiles and wood panelling. Highlighting the darkly lit den, and conceived specifically for Primo’s, is...

Hotel Indigo The Hague – Palace Noordeinde

Friday June 8th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
In marking its debut in The Netherlands, the playful and vibrant hotel brand, Indigo, has brought its youthful aesthetic to The Hague. Hotel Indigo occupies the historic former Dutch National Bank building, originally built in 1883, on Noordeinde, the city’s now prestigious shopping drag lined with beautiful art nouveau buildings. The property exudes the same refreshing textures and exuberance that have made it a firm favourite in cities like Warsaw and Hong Kong. For The Hague, the hotel commissioned Raamsdonk-based firm Hugo Interior Design. Taking its cues from the building’s history and location, the designers mixed restored original details with thoughtful modern additions such as pop art-style portraits of the Royal family, luxe fabrics and colours, and motifs inspired by The Netherland’s historic currency, the Dutch guilder. After a day exploring the nearby museums, or even browsing Noordeinde's fashion boutiques or high-end galleries, its a treat to return to the...

New York City’s latest crop of luxury residential developments

Thursday June 7th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

R & Company unveils fresh New York gallery housing archive library, exhibition space and more

Thursday June 7th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
For the pioneering New York design gallery R & Company, heralding 20 years in the industry was a perfect opportunity to reinvigorate its mission. This week, the Tribeca institution inaugurates a new space, just a stone’s throw from its original location. Situated behind an 1869-built cast iron storefront, the gallery’s new iteration boasts 8,000 sq ft of space at its disposal, allowing it to support and pursue 20th- and 21st-century design at a grand new scale. Designed by Kulapat Yantrasast and Andrija Stojic of the interdisciplinary design and architecture studio, Why, the new multi-level gallery not only houses exhibition spaces, but also an academic research centre with an archive and library amassed during the gallery’s 20 years, that will be available to both institutions and the public. ‘The new space will take what our existing gallery has already done for two decades and elevate it to a more iconic...

Linked in: classic chain designs have us feeling hot under the collar

Thursday June 7th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Modernist-inspired residential gem Stradella completes in Bel Air

Thursday June 7th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
South African architects Saota are an established force in the market for upscale, contemporary, single family houses. They are popular for their modernist-inspired approach, which fuses strong connections between indoor and outdoor living. Now the Cape Town-based practice has just completed its first offering across the ocean – Stradella, a newly renovated villa in Los Angeles’ Bel Air. The project was a contemporary reintepretation of an existing 1970s residence. The client requested a modern home that would be more in line with the region’s renowned modernist styles; yet the original structure was awash with Spanish references. The architects got straight to work, stripping down the existing decor and ornamentation, and keeping just the structural bare bones – its timber skeleton. From there, they rebuilt it with Californian Modernism in mind, and in particular, references to the famous Case Study Houses programme of the 1940s, 50s and 60s. The internal gutting and reconfiguration...

Wallpaper* + Walter Knoll Leadchair Management

Thursday June 7th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
‘Management is, above all, a practice where art, science and craft meet,’ said Henry Mintzberg, an esteemed Canadian academic and McKinsey Award-winning business writer. It’s a theory that comes from a considered and informed place: Mintzberg – a mechanical engineering graduate with a master’s degree in management – is the author of 15 books on business strategy, and he knows a thing or two about finessing the complex machinations of the workplace. The intellectual notion of an office running like a cross between an atelier, a laboratory and a workshop is distilled in the minimalist form and immaculate function of Walter Knoll’s ‘Leadchair Management’ swivel chair. A meticulous fusing of craft, aesthetics and engineered precision, every curve, upholstered pad and synchronised mechanism has been fine-tuned to reflect good management strategy and encourage dynamic leadership. According to the brand, the ‘Leadchair Management’ chair ‘is the swivel chair for the modern workplace and conference room; a...

Must-see design exhibitions in June from around the globe

Thursday June 7th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
We’ve scoured the globe to find the most captivating, uncanny and memorable design shows to see in 2018; from retrospectives and major blockbusters to thematic exhibitions and solo shows. So here’s our list of must-see design events this month... The Strong Collection at Vitsœ, Leamington Spa Vitsoe opened its elegant new HQ last year in Leamington Spa, a utopian work space that celebrates the brand’s progressive design past, merging it with its exciting future. The space nods to the brand’s history with an archive gallery area which is currently home to a new exhibition of Tom Strong’s Braun collection. Last year saw Vitsœ obtain the Connecticut-born graphic designer’s 250-piece collection, and showcase these in its New York and London stores. ‘It was almost by chance, talking to the Vitsœ team about my Braun collection that they mentioned how it could help with their mission to educate the next generation of...

Haptic Architects’ Rosemoor Studios brings modern prefabrication to Chelsea

Thursday June 7th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
London and Oslo-based architecture practice Haptic Architects are known for a contemporary style that fuses Nordic influences with the language of international design and luxury. Their latest offering in the British capital’s residential market is a case in point. Rosemoor Studios, a boutique apartment building in the heart of London’s Chelsea, is the result of meticulous design and research into how to create the most elegant and functional space using the most efficient processes and with minimal disruption for the neighbours; all through a refined, contemporary architectural language.  The project, a compact, brick-clad, three-level residential development, references the area’s architectural styles and mirrors their massing and height. However, the facade was created by full storey prefabricated panels using handmade Petersen bricks. The brick elements have been coal-fired in Denmark and transported ready on site, to cleverly limit disruption. The building also features heavily pre-cast stone at its base, creating a...

Saint Laurent stages twinkling S/S 2019 menswear show on New York’s Liberty Island

Thursday June 7th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
In the upper echelons of conservative, haute couture-wearing circles in Paris in the early Seventies, New York City was viewed as a mecca of glamour, disco and decadence. Nightclubs, like Max’s Kansas City on Park Avenue South, pulsed to vibrant disco beats, revellers were swathed in bias-cut Halston, and Andy Warhol ruled the after-midnight scene. Yves Saint Laurent travelled to New York City in 1972, where he was interviewed for Warhol’s Interview magazine by Bianca Jagger. Six years later he held a extravagant party in Manhattan to celebrate the launch of the brand’s controversial Opium perfume. On Wednesday, Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello extended the New York City-centric history of the Parisian house, holding the brand’s first menswear show on Liberty Island at the mouth of the Hudson River. The designer has a penchant for treating guests to breathtaking views of cities; in Paris, his showspace next to the...

From hipster to high end, the 10 Chicago hotels for 2018

Thursday June 7th, 2018 11:00:00 PM

Is Pink Fish restaurant Norway’s healthy, sustainable answer to McDonald’s?

Thursday June 7th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Could salmon give the McNugget a run for its money? Norwegian chef and winner of the prestigious Bocuse d’Or Geir Skeie thinks so. With co-founder Ronny Gjøse, he’s set up Pink Fish, a ‘fast-casual’ restaurant that offers top-quality Norwegian salmon certified farms, served in burgers, wraps, salads, hotpots and raw. The brand’s logo, courtesy of Portland Design The fledgling (or should that be fry?) brand debuted in Oslo and opens in Bergen in July; three more Oslo sites will be followed by more in Norway, and its first overseas outlet is earmarked for Singapore in spring 2019, with plans for China. ‘The large international expansion we are working towards will happen via franchise partners or joint ventures,’ says Gjøse. The chain’s name, logo and interiors were created by London agency Portland Design, who also came up with the slogan ‘from fjord to fork’. The fish theme is present...

The Smithsons’ Economist Plaza renovation by DSDHA is revealed

Wednesday June 6th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
One of London’s most beloved architectural icons, the Economist Plaza by Britain’s brutalist pioneers Alison and Peter Smithson, is being given new lease of life after a loving restoration by architects DSDHA for commercial real estate specialists Tishman Speyer The complex – consisting of a raised open space, the 15-storey Economist Tower, the five-storey Bank Building and an eight-storey residential building – was acquired by its current owners in 2016, who immediately set out to refresh and restore it into a thriving, vital part of its London neighbourhood.  ‘We tried to find a team that had the same aspirations as us’, says Tishman Speyer managing director Dan Nicholson, ‘and we found DSDHA. They were the right people for the project and understood what we were talking about. And they are also a husband-an-wife team, like the Smithsons. It felt like the right fit.’ The architects took on the challenge...

The Parisian shirting label celebrating the spirit of the Incroyables

Wednesday June 6th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Charting the evolution of the humble white shirt from the 15th to the 20th century, Bourrienne Paris X is a distinctly unique outfitter for the 21st century. The label is based in the street-front space of Paris’ Hôtel Bourrienne in the 10th arrondissement – a building of the Directory period constructed in the late 1790s – and sells only one thing: shirts. And only eight different kinds.Bourrienne Paris X Pre-Fall 2018 The brainchild of hotel owner Charles Beigbeder and designer Cecile Faucheur, Bourrienne Paris X is a paean to the Incroyables; the pioneering thinkers and writers who frequented the hotel; the likes of Victor Hugo and Bonaparte who mused in the drawing rooms, clad in their white cottons. These eight shirts are crafted with exactitude. The designs are woven in organic Californian and Egyptian cottons (two-ply poplin) and linens from Normandy (heavy and opaque), and span modern to classical shape and...

Yinka Shonibare steps into the curator’s seat with a sharp survey of African art

Wednesday June 6th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Mayfair gallerist Stephen Friedman has represented British-Nigerian artist Yinka Shonibare for 22 years. Together they have grown to become linchpins of the British art scene, with Friedman having dedicated six solo shows to his Turner Prize-winning friend. Their latest exhibition, entitled ‘Talisman in the Age of Difference’, celebrates Shonibare as curator. Sticking to themes close to his heart – identity politics, African resistance, the civil rights movement – Shonibare has selected 46 artists of African origin and from across the diaspora for the show, and placed paintings alongside sculpture and drawings spanning the early 20th century to present day. Installation view of ‘Talisman in the Age of Difference’. Courtesy of Stephen Friedman Gallery, London. Photography: Mark Blower Big guns such as American sculptor Melvin Edwards and Kehinde Wiley (whose 2017 portrait of Barack Obama was the first of any US President by an African-American) appear alongside lesser-known names such as...

French nightclubs by day, suburban housing and a replica Paris in China

Wednesday June 6th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Paris syndrome is a genuine mental disorder experienced by some tourists on arrival in the French capital. The first documented case of the culture shock sickness was recorded by professor Hiroaki Ota in 1986, when it manifested itself in a Japanese visitor who was deeply perturbed by the reality of the city. Anyone who has booked a dud Airbnb, or been on a Tinder date can surely relate. It is also the title of a series by the French photographer François Prost, whose first solo exhibition, ‘Photo Stories’, opens on June 7 at Superette Gallery, Paris. In his photographs, Prost presents pictures of Tianducheng – a replica Paris in the suburbs of Hangzhou, China – side by side with the original. It’s a game of spot-the-difference, irreverent and droll. China’s replica Eiffel Tower pictured left alongside the Eiffel Tower in France, from the series Paris Syndrome But there’s also something...

BlackBerry KEY2: the ‘defiantly different’ smartphone everyone’s talking about

Wednesday June 6th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
The story of the BlackBerry smartphone has become a technology-tuned fable over the years. The once hugely popular manufacturer had a monopoly on portable communications, peaking in 2013, with 85 million subscribers worldwide. But as iOS and Android picked up pace, the Canadian company’s popularity dwindled, with subscribers falling to 23 million in 2016. Today, BlackBerry (alongside parent-company TLC Communications) has resurrected the ‘Berry from consumer tech’s dusty back porch with the launch of the BlackBerry KEY2 smartphone, which is being pitched as a defiantly different market disrupter: a device for people craving a change; bored by the homogenisation of smartphone design. Whether it will tempt the scrolling thumbs of a new generation of picky phone aficionados, or succeed in attracting the old guard, remains to be seen. From a design perspective, changes from the previous KEYone model (launched in 2017) are subtle. It was crucial to the in-house designers that the KEY2 remain distinctly ‘BlackBerry’...

Where do the Serpentine Pavilions go after the summer season?

Wednesday June 6th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
It won’t be long now before this year’s Serpentine Pavillion appears in Kensington Gardens, on the lawns outside the Serpentine Gallery. The latest edition has been designed by the Mexican architect Frida Escobedo, at 38 by far the youngest to take up the privilege. Those by her predecessors, now numbering nearly 20, have ended up all over the world, mostly purchased by wealthy, enlightened art collectors. Last year’s version by Diébédo Francis Kéré, an architect from Burkina Faso, was snapped up by the Ilham Gallery of Kuala Lumpur and is yet to be set up in its new home somewhere in the Klang Valley region where KL is located. Such cultural cross-pollination – Kere’s pavilion has a proudly African language – has become an inadvertent outcome of a project that really started out by accident.   Francis Kéré’s 2017 Serpentine Pavilion. Photography: © Iwan Baan In 2000, Julia Peyton-Jones, the...

Manuel Herz wins Senegal hospital project in Tambacounda

Wednesday June 6th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
The Josef and Anni Albers Foundation already has strong ties with the Tambacounda region of Senegal; the organisation was behind the Thread Centre, which opened in 2015 as a site for artists from around the world to live and work in the rural village of Sinthian. Now, the foundation and Le Korsa have conceived and are funding a new initiative in the area - the extension to the local hospital – and the project has just been awarded to award winning Swiss architect Manuel Herz. The brief called for the architect to enhance and expand the existing hospital facilities, and after a rigorous selection process, the Basel-based architect was chosen for the scheme, which is due to commence on site in September 2018. The winning proposal feels both modern and sensitive to its environment. The extension features a curvilinear building connected to the existing hospital by a covered pathway. Brickwork that creates a lattice-like texture...

Vacation Café

Wednesday June 6th, 2018 11:00:00 PM
Melbourne has always had a heated love affair with coffee, and the arrival of Vacation Café in the city’s downtown district, a block east from the stately pile of the Flinders Street Railway Station, will do little to dampen the mood for a good cup of java.  Local design studio Therefore gutted the former Mama Wong’s Chinese restaurant to create a stripped back austere space, the arched doorways and hard plastered walls adding an unexpected monastic vibe. White floor tiles with random pastel-coloured triangle corners and elongated steel joinery finished in pink and blue provide the high ceilinged volume with an intimate scale, while slender Mattiazzi chairs and angular Muller van Severen wall lamps add depth.  The café’s location, meanwhile, makes it a convenient pit-stop for coffee on the way to the nearby Treasury and Fitzroy Gardens, though regulars stop by for a bag of fresh beans, and...





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