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Wallpaper* Magazine: design, interiors, architecture, fashion, art - News feed
Last feed update: Friday February 23rd, 2018 10:33:01 AMAfter 48 years, Melbourne entrepreneur Ross Shelmerdine’s vision to transform Mitchelton Estate into an international tourist destination, is finally complete thanks to the winery’s new owners, businessman Gerry Ryan and his son Andrew, who have opened a 58-room hotel on the grounds. In the hands of local firm Hecker Guthrie, the low-slung architecture is an understated addition to the property’s distinct Robyn Boyd-designed buildings – realised by his successor Ted Ashton – including the iconic 55-metre viewing tower. Wielding a palette of warm timber, copper, leather, natural wool rugs, marble and linen in soothing earthy tones of mushroom brown and charcoal grey, the architects have created a modern atmosphere that slots right into the hotel’s bucolic setting- further boosted by and floor-to-ceiling windows that pull in countryside views. After a day ambling around the vineyards, cool off in the 20-metre infinity pool or indulge at the spa before...If one were to paint a picture of the perfect tropical retreat, it would surely involve large open spaces, swathes of concrete, wood and glass, generous openings that create a seamless transition between the interiors and the lush greenery and bright sunlight outside. Studio Saxe has it nailed with not one, but two neighbouring houses in Costa Rica’s Santa Teresa rainforest. The Joya Villas, a set of modern homes designed as rental properties, are head architect Benjamin Garcia Saxe’s latest residential offering. The San Jose-based architect likes to explore the relationship between architecture and the natural environment, and this commission gave him the perfect excuse to test out his studies.Take an interactive tour of Joya Villas The houses are nestled on a hillside and jut out of the area’s rich forest vegetation, standing out with their steel frames and rectangular forms. Aiming to use modernist forms and an...With 11 new or upcoming properties in the works, The Kimpton Hotel and Restaurant Group continues to expand at an astonishing rate. It’s newest opening is just one more example of its talent for sniffing out prime locations in happening neighbourhoods. Against a muscular backdrop of the San Jacinto mountains and just steps from the Palm Springs Art Museum, the 153-room Rowan is contained within a modern seven-storey new build, by West Coast firms ACRM Architects + Interiors and DesignARC, that is the crowning glory of Downtown Palm Springs’ decade-long regeneration project. The building itself, is a contemporary reference to the area’s modernism roots, with angular lines, expansive glass windows, wide overhangs, three dimensional lemon-yellow pop-out boxes, and a sleek roofline that cuts across the rugged desert landscape. This leads to soaring, light-filled interiors, which the Kimpton Design Team, together with Powerstrip Studio, have dressed with low-slung furnishings and custom...Mood board: K.’s Cigarette’s After Sex, the first song in the sound track to Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s A/W 2018 runway show, bought an air of sensual rebellion to the proceedings. This was a collection that combined masculine and feminine tropes — a beaded negligee paired with an oversized parka and a pair of creepers, a twinkling mini skirt with a huge shearling coat, long evening gloves and gold soled trainers, or a fleshy patent trouser with a plaid rodeo shirt. Punk details and evening wear, tailoring and teddy-boy, this was a collection that tied together strands of influence, culminating in looks that were modern, exciting and highly covetable. Best in show: From Bottega Veneta to Proenza Schouler, animal print has been popping up the A/W 2018 catwalks. A cow skin trench coat with a sporty buckled waist and a leopard print collar ticked all the boxes. Elsewhere, among the plaids, gauzy tulles and...Mood board: From artist Heinz Stangl to Franz Schubert’s twinkling compositions, Arthur Arbesser often looks to his Viennese heritage for inspiration. The designer, who honed his teeth working under Giorgio Armani and launched his own label in 2015, fuses the fields of art and fashion in his designs, resulting in bright and imaginative prints and silhouettes that nod to Memphis or Blinky Palermo. For A/W 2018, Arbesser looked to Koloman Moser for inspiration, the Austrian artist who was part of the Vienna succession, and is renowned for his graphic and poster art style. This meant gently swishing viscose dresses in grid or stripe prints (an Arbesser signature), skinny layered knits with shimmering metallic threads, shiny trench coats and A-line skirts paired with patent knee high boots, all inspired by Moser’s designs for blown glass, ceramics and carpets. Best in show: Arbesser revived a Moser dot and stripe print from 1902, developed...Exposed polished edges, circular form and a spherical brass base elevate Minimalux’s ‘O Mirror’ from functional tool to stylish home accessory. At first glance, the mirror appears to be a feat of balance, but observe the base which remains firm and rooted to flat surfaces whilst also able to rotate on its axis. Available from WallpaperSTORE*Our friends at Cottage Eight Films are no strangers to far-flung locales: jet-set filmmaking duo Cory Jacobs and Jason Schmidt most recently sent us a moving image postcard from the Alps. So to Marrakech, where they’ve captured an envy-inducing sun-drenched snapshot of the Moroccan city, taking us on a whistle-stop day-to-night tour of the La Mamounia Palace Hotel, and the much-anticipated Yves Saint Laurent Museum. As the art worlds descend on the city this week for the international launch of Museum of African Contemporary Art AL Maaden (MACAAL), and the inaugural Marrakech edition of 1:54 Contemporary African Art Fair (24-25 February), immerse yourself in the splendid sights and sounds of Morocco. For more information, visit the Cottage Eight Films website, the MACAAL website, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent website and the La Mamounia Palace Hotel websiteFusing together the crisp feel of the Rocky Mountains with a classic French flair, Le Méridien has captured the best of both worlds with its new property in Denver, the first for the brand in Colorado. Filled with mid-century touches and nods to French mountain chalets, the hotel is a stylish mixture of clean lines, eye-catching millwork that references the design of snowboards and skis, and vibrant graphics inspired by the stock patterns and textures of ski and alpine wear. From the spacious, light-filled rooms, which have been realised in a cool palette of whites and greys, to the inviting shared spaces that combine warm wood panels, shaggy fur accents and a fireplace or two, the property, designed by Chicago-based firm Simeone Deary Design Group, has both the bases and details covered. In addition, the hotel not only boasts a substantial art collection, created by local artists, a partnership...There was a high dosage of medical drama on Gucci’s A/W 2018 runway today. Wallpaper* was lucky enough to scrub-up and take a sneak peak at the brand’s operating-table inspired show set at its Piurach-designed Gucci Hub and it got us hoping for a check-up. Last season, the brand’s creative director Alessandro Michele took an historical approach to Gucci’s runway set design, with a catwalk inspired by Ancient Rome, and populated with mythological figures like a Buddha and an Egyptian mummy. Michele is renowned for his encyclopedic aesthetic, but for A/W 2018 he demonstrated a more stripped-back approach to the creative direction behind his set design, erecting five sterile turquoise operating rooms within his pristine show set, with real life tables, surgical sheets and operating-room lights which illuminated the catwalk. There was a sense of claustrophobia, with narrow entrance doors fueling the antiseptic sense of discomfort on entering. Rows of wipe...Bike rides in cycle in Dubai start early in the morning, long before the sun comes up. The Lycra-clad, carbon fibre-equipped massive of the Dubai Roadsters meets at the Nad al Sheba Cycle Park on Fridays for the start of a 5.30am ride that takes in a lap of the park’s circuit before heading out down the Meydan Road. Hosted by Dubai cycling legend Wolfgang Hohmann – owner of Wolfi’s Bike Shop on Sheikh Zayed Road – the group then splits into two speeds and distances: 85km for the keen and steady rouleurs and a 120km route for the go-faster peloton. The first hour is in the chilly, clammy dark. Around 150 red tail lights blink in the cool half light, the whirr and click of expensive, precision Japanese gearing audible over the light traffic. But as the sun rises, Dubai’s otherworldly cityscape reveals itself. There’s the Burj Khalifa...When it comes to the design of grand public buildings and spaces, the Italians have the competition pretty much stitched up. Case in point is Milan’s ornate and lofty Giuseppe Mengoni-designed Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, long considered a high-water mark in Italian architecture and retail therapy. Less obvious, perhaps, has been the cruciformed gallery’s food and beverage offerings, which have tended to be a little overpriced and uncomfortably crowded with exhausted tourists and resigned locals. All of which makes the arrival of Cracco, on the Park Hyatt side of the gallery, such a boon, both for its sumptuous interiors by Studio Peragalli and its impeccable Milanese menu conceived by the titular Carlo Cracco. Connected over three floors – a luxury of space, even by local standards – Cracco comprises café, soigné restaurant, a wine cellar holding over 10,000 bottles and 2000 labels, and a private events space with its...Mood board: Last summer, Eudon Choi travelled to St Ives in Cornwall, and was not only enamoured by the raw beauty of the coastal town, but also its rich artistic legacy. ‘It’s such an interesting place with such an interesting history,’ said the Korean-born, London-based designer after his show. Choi was particularly fascinated by creative pioneers Christopher Wood, Ben Nicholson and Alfred Wallis, who were at the epicentre of the modernist movement in Cornwall during the 1920s. His A/W 2018 collection explored the relationship these artists had with their environment, touching on elements such as the famous Cornish light (still much admired today) and the rugged tools and textures of the fishing trade. Sound bite: ‘I started off by looking at the Cornish fishing trade and that led me to discover these artists’ work. I particularly love Alfred Wallis’ paintings, his naive application of primary color and texture really inspired...Fashion week is not just the time for brands to showcase new collections. It’s also the schedule from which they experiment with new formats, be it presentations or video debuts, the merging of men’s and women’s lines or the showcase of see-now-buy-now collections. Last night on 20 February, Italian label Moncler debuted the latest chapter in the narrative of its creative vision, unveiling the ‘Genius Building’, a magnificent show at Palazzo delle Scintilla, made up of eight individual presentations by a roster of Moncler’s latest collaborators, including Craig Green, Simone Rocha and Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli. ‘Since the beginning, Moncler has been constantly been looking for new means of expression,’ explains Remo Ruffini, Moncler’s chairman and CEO. Until last year, the brand had presented its Thom Browne and Giambattista Valli directed Moncler Gamme Bleu and Rouge lines on the men’s and women’s fashion week schedule. It has also collaborated with a roster of...‘I aways say that the designer is the composer of the music and the photographer plays the instrument – or is the interpreter of the piece,’ says Paolo Roversi, in the introduction to Dior Images, a new Rizzoli-published masterpiece, which celebrates the 70-year history of the French maison’s haute couture atelier. The house of Dior is one brimming with famed fashion images – take the nipped in silhouette of its renowned 1947 New Look, the scalloped skirt of M Dior’s Venus-inspired ‘Junon dress’, twinkling with beading and embroidery, or the the historical references held together in the folds of a John Galliano designed gown. Dior Images is a physicalised hand-held celebration of Dior’s 70-year anniversary. It follows last April’s extensive retrospective exhibition of the maison’s history at Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Roversi’s poetic and painterly Polaroids are also wrapped up in the maison’s history — the Italian photographer...Scene setting: The Australia-born London-based designer got toes tapping on the front row of her A/W 2018 runway show. As guests entered her minimalist brightly lit show space on Great Portland Street in Central London, they were handed whisky cocktails in chic orange glassware, before settling down a seventies soundtrack by Roxy Music and T-Rex. Mood board: Seventies style was also in the air on the catwalk, as Wickstead took cues from the 1970 film romantic film Love Story, directed by Arthur Hiller and starring Ali MacGraw and Ryan O'Neal. MacGraw’s collegiate style was reflected in thick check tailored coats and oversized plaid blazers, cute Pilgrim collar dresses, high-waisted wide-legged corduroy trousers and sparkly lurex shirt dresses. Chic campus-inspired dressing for the Wickstead woman. Best in show: Wickstead has become synonymous with the creation of wonderful evening wear — her pretty florals and exaggerated silhouettes have offered a distinct and intellectual interpretation...‘An industrial shell with style.’ That’s what British designer Neil Barrett was looking for when he needed a new headquarters. He set up his namesake label at the turn of the millennium, after almost a decade working for Italian megabrands Gucci and Prada, and he initially bought a small studio big enough for a team of five. But, by the end of 2016, he was heading up a global fashion brand with a staff of more than 80, who found themselves spread across seven different buildings on Via Savona, in south west Milan. It was time to find bigger quarters. Barrett found his industrial shell with style in a former power plant on Milan’s Via Ceresio. It then took two years for architects Barbara Ghidoni, Marco Donati and Michele Pasini – of Storage Associati – to turn this 538,200 sq ft building into an HQ. Its vast, white...British paint brand Farrow & Ball is synonymous with a certain kind of muted, Regency-chic drawing-room aesthetic (and very refined it is too). But for Palm Springs’ Modernism Week, the company has teamed up with California-born designer Christopher Kennedy and modern furniture dealer Converso to create an interiors display channelling the vivid, nostalgic glamour of Palm Springs design. ‘Colourful Escape’, as the set-up is dubbed, is certainly eye-catching. Kennedy has conceived a wall design ‘reminiscent of Palm Springs breezeblock patterns’, covered with bright F&B hues like the dramatic orange of ‘Charlotte’s Locks’, the mint green ‘Arsenic’ and the lush pink of ‘Nancy’s Blushes’ (abstruse names are a Farrow & Ball trademark). This he surrounded with classic pieces from Converso (and ‘layered in artwork, rugs and accessories from some of my favourite vendors’ he explains).The ‘Colourful Escape’ is a collaboration between Farrow & Ball, Christopher Kennedy and Converso for...American interior design studio Workstead favours a minimalist palette in its designs. The studio has expanded its 'Signal' lighting range with a new addition, the ‘Globe’ lamp. The delicate piece features a thin pull chain and a large glass globe for a poetic, jewel-like finish. ‘Globe’ is available in brass, silver and nickel finishes.Thomas Keller’s three-starred Michelin restaurant in Yountville, California has been a foodie staple since its opening in 1994. The French Laundry is known for its fine French cuisine and high culinary culture – yet this is the first major design overhaul of the eatery’s headquarters in over two decades. Enter Snøhetta, whose New York team led the new kitchen design and courtyard renovation. The works have just been completed, unveiling the complex’s major refresh, which ‘doubles the size of the existing landscape’, say the architects. Creating a state-of-the-art restaurant environment was as important as ensuring everything in the service runs smoothly; which is why the architects spent time studying the complex choreography of the restaurant’s functions. The project included the creation of a new 2,000 sq ft kitchen annex to house support functions, such as the butchery, produce breakdown, and wine collection. Snøhetta used simple geometries and modern...As a child, Peter Doig visited the home of Eberhard Zeidler, situated in the wealthy Toronto suburb of Rosedale. This house is the stated inspiration of his masterwork – The Architect’s Home in the Ravine (1991) – which is going under the gavel on 7 March at Sotheby’s in London. However, it’s commonly thought that the dark undertones of the work come from somewhere else altogether. According to Sotheby’s, ‘The eerie mood and the composition can be better traced to a celebrated Le Corbusier building, the Unité d’Habitation in Briey-en-Fôret in northeast France.’ In the summer of 1991 the Scottish painter visited the Unité d’Habitation (one of five housing projects constructed by Le Corbusier in France between 1947-53) which had been derelict since 1973, as part of a team of artists and architects working on its restoration. He was struck by the view of the modernist building from the thick, surrounding forest. Doig references its brightly...Sound bite: ‘It all started with illustrations from The Joy of Sex and More Joy of Sex, by Chris Foss and Charles Raymond. It’s both a text book study and a sensuous display of line drawing, almost in coffee table book form that’s both weird and really everyday. All of which always intrigues me.’ – Christopher Kane. Mood board: Kane hammered home his intentions right from the outset this season. Before models even took to the runway at Tate Britain, a stark electro soundtrack repeated phrases (or perhaps commands) such as ‘more sex’ and ‘even more pleasure’. While the prodigal designer has never shied away from sensuality and subversion, his designs have never been as overtly erotic as they were for A/W 2018. Black crepe dresses bared jewel-encrusted cage constructions, while sheer rubber gowns entrapped with fine lace left little – or nothing – to the imagination. Cashmere jumpers were...Mood board: Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have built their cult brand upon the fans – #MAgirls, as they call them. They interact with them on a daily basis through a vast social media network. It’s a whip-smart move that has earned the label a reputation for being inclusive, grounded and relevant (qualities that are no doubt in short supply elsewhere). This season, the #MAgirls are more prominently featured in the collection than ever before. Not only did a lucky few walk in the show following the designers’ open casting call, but several also featured in recorded video interviews, which were projected onto the walls of the set. ‘It’s ok to be who you are and be unapologetic about it,’ said one girl. ‘You have to be content with your body, it doesn’t matter what society tells you,’ affirmed another. Empowering statements such as these also appeared on supersized sweaters...Mood board: It was on visiting the House of Style exhibition at Chatsworth House last year, that Erdem Moralioglu first discovered Adele Astaire – the late sister of Fred, who enjoyed great success as a dancer, actress and singer during the 1910s and 1920s. Taken by her charisma and fearless independence, the Canadian-born, London-based designer set about imagining what the starlet would wear now. Enter plush velvet dresses, polka-dot stockings, tweed capes and crystal-embellished mules. Scene setting: There are few better places to watch a fashion show than within the opulent confines of London’s National Portrait Gallery. Evidently, Erdem feels the same way. Guests were seated on long benches between connecting rooms at the top of the museum, allowing models to walk the runway while rubbing shoulders with some of the world’s foremost portrait paintings. Best in show: Erdem has become synonymous with elegant evening dresses, and this season the brand’s...Scene setting: Roksanda Ilincic enlisted contemporary Swiss artist Caroline Denervaud to create a wistful, painterly set for her A/W 2018 show. Denervaud, who studied contemporary dance before becoming a painter and performance artist, creates lines and spontaneous blocks of colour based upon her exploration of movement and emotion. Slim canvases were hung like sails from the ceiling of the runway, giving the collection – which comprised fluid silk dresses, colour-blocked parkas and swing dresses with sculptural panels – a greater sense of movement. Mood board: The notion of clothing as protection first emerged during New York Fashion Week and has carried through to London. At Roksanda, the sentiment was expressed through long quilted coats (elegant, rather than bulky), thick shearling jackets, oversized scarves and even blankets, which the models clutched onto tightly or threw over their shoulders as they descended the runway. Colours, however, veered towards the calmer end of...Judy Blame has passed away at the age of 58. Born in 1960 in Leatherhead, Surrey, he ran away to London at 17, ushering in a new era of styling. He was a man of many fabulous hats: accessories designer, fashion stylist, celebrity confidante, ahead-of-the-curve underground club icon. A true visionary who did ‘art direction’ before it was a thing, creating the look for Björk’s Debut album (1992), and draping Massive Attack in fake Rolexes and Kangols for their Blue Lines era. He was the maverick who encouraged Boy George into headgear and styled Neneh Cherry in that gold bomber jacket and oversized dollar sign pendant when she burst onto the pop scene (seven-months pregnant) with Buffalo Stance in 1988. Like many of his contemporaries, Blame nurtured his outré style while immersed in London’s colourful, underground club scene – most notably as part of the Blitz crowd alongside the likes of Leigh Bowery, Stephen...For years, Leicester Square was that place you walked through on the way to somewhere more interesting, like dim sum on Gerrard Street or an all-nighter at the Prince Charles. Better known then for greasy spoons and tourists who insisted on calling it ‘Ly-sester’, it regained a semblance of its original elegance following a multi-million pound renovation that attracted higher-end residents, like the W and the Radisson Blu, into the area. The latest to join them is Victory House, an 86-bedroom MGallery hotel, which occupies a French Renaissance-style building on the north side of the square. The Sofitel’s venture into hotels with ‘character’, Victory House is a celebration of Leicester Square’s glamorous heritage as home to the most prestigious cinemas in the country. Inside, the imposing terracotta-coloured facade gives way to soft colours and hard furnishings; teals, greys, brass and wood, are offset by black-and-white film shots and the...Bringing together leading artists, writers, architects, musicians, filmmakers and other creative luminaries with the brightest young stars in their field, the Rolex Mentor and Protégé programme is an ambitious cultural exchange. The protégés reveal what mentoring has meant to them and how their lives have changed as a result. The Brazilian writer, critic and translator Julián Fuks was born in São Paulo, and is the author of three novels, a short-story collection and a children’s book. His last novel, A Resistência (Resistance), won Brazil’s Jabuti prize for Best Novel of the Year 2016. W*: Describe your time with your mentor, the Mozambican writer Mia Couto.Julián Fuks: I think, from the moment we met, Mia and I have been carrying on a conversation, and it has been a very long and pleasant one. Many times we changed the backdrop – first Maputo, then the Azores, São Paulo, Lisbon, London –...Not only is Shigeru Ban’s new Terrace House, a 19-storey mixed use project that broke ground last week in Vancouver, slated to be North America’s tallest hybrid timber structure when it completes in 2020, it’s also an extraordinary homage to the legacy of Arthur Erickson and his adjacent Evergreen Building. So symbiotic is the new design that it appears to extrude organically from the 1980 Evergreen, Erickson’s post-Robson Square take on office building as urban oasis, with terraced gardens sloping down what was an old railway rampart, towards the ocean. Mimicking the Evergreen’s geometry and extracting its design DNA, there is a sense that Ban’s building is born from Erickson’s. ‘Shigeru completed the Evergreen’s arch with his design,’ says long-time Erickson collaborator Nick Milkovich, ‘He kept the form going and it really melds the two buildings together.’An architectural model of Shigeru Ban's Terrace House Ban’s design follows...The last chapter of Italian furniture brand Natuzzi’s first book is titled ‘The beating heart of Natuzzi’. It would also, one could argue, act as a fitting title for the new tome itself. When a brand revisits its history and successes, it tends to take a ‘greatest hits’ approach, delivering a catalogue-style book of brilliant designs. Natuzzi took a different tack, creating a narrative of its intriguing business history. ‘The story of how a small workshop located in a village in southern Italy transformed itself into a multinational company, selling its products all over the world, is just remarkable,’ states author Luca Condosta in the opening pages of Natuzzi: The Italian Harmony Maker. Like any epic, the story kicks off at the beginning of the journey, in this case right after the Second World War, where brand founder Pasquale Natuzzi is described as coming from a humble family of...Known as Israel’s cultural capital, Tel Aviv has an architectural identity that is a tale of two cities. The sun-drenched secular metropolis is loved internationally for its bohemian Bauhaus treasures, with some 4,000 historic buildings scattered across the broad, verdant boulevards of its White City district. Then there’s its less recognised postmodern legacy: perhaps best summarised by the 34,500 sq m spacescape of the Azrieli Centre – its epic trifecta of towers completed by Eli Attia & Yaski Sivan Architects just shy of the millennium, reflecting all the futuristic optimism of the late 90s through its design. This split personality is soothed by Jaffa, the historical port just south of the city that has now become the go-to destination for Tel Avivian nightlife entertainment. Countless clubs and 24-hour art venues like the new Magasin III are setting a new standard for the city’s late night culture junkies.Richard...Although there was a tinge of irony behind the launch of a classic British convertible in the rainy south of France, we were left with no doubt that the new Aston Martin DB11 Volante is something special, regardless of the outlook. Just as night follows day, Aston Martin – like every other manufacturer in its class – will eventually launch a convertible version of its sporting coupes. The latest model to get the drop-top treatment is the DB11, launched to great acclaim in 2016. It’s taken the best part of two years to get the Volante model to market, even though the open car (which revives Aston’s legendary nameplate) will ultimately account for 40 per cent of all DB11 sales. The company is deep in an ambitious plan to revitalise, re-engineer and expand its entire range (it quietly pointed out, amidst the gloom of the UK’s recent car sales statistics, that it...The tension and struggles among invisible powers (often economic) and society, the artificial world and nature are often at the fore of Jacqueline Hassink’s work. In The Table of Power (1996) and The Table of Power 2 (2012) the Dutch-born, New York-based photographer looked at Europe’s economic landscape through some of the largest industrial multinationals; in Car Girls (2009), she visited major motor shows across three continents to compare how femininity is used in corporate identities. Launched recently at the Nederlands Fotomuseum in Rotterdam, Hassink’s ‘Unwired’ – presented as both book and exhibition – looks at the asphyxiating relationship between the human and digital worlds, confronting our addiction to mobile devices.Installation view of the ‘Unwired’ exhibition at Nederlands Fotomuseum The exhibition is an amalgamation of two projects: Unwired Landscapes and iPortrait. It started in the summer of 2012 on a trip with her assistant to a Japanese island, Yakushima, where they...While athleisure has reigned the catwalks for countless seasons, IRL workout wear has been making efforts to keep up too. Explorations in tech fabrics and sustainability have optimised the materials we wear so close to the skin. Between couture corsetry, graceful silhouettes and strategic colour blocking, the style stakes have soared. Here are three new brands keeping up both performance and appearances… Ernest Leoty When exploring the Louvre archives, trained engineer Marion Rabate discovered the work of visionary designer Ernest Leoty. In the late 19th century Leoty was famous for his corsetry, and his endeavour to ‘create an object of art of an incomparable flexibility that facilitates the movement of the body instead of impeding it’. Ballet-lover Rabate was immediately drawn to his studies while searching for inspiration for her leisurewear venture, and she promptly sought to acquire the rights to the brand and its name. ‘He was a very modern...Scene setting: Central Saint Martin’s alumna Mary Katrantzou returned once more to the university of her fashion education for her A/W 2018 collection, holding her show in the cavernous entrance space at 1 Granary Square. Katrantzou named her collection ‘Interior Lives’ and this was reflected in a catwalk set up with rows of glass blocks at head, resembling the tiled design of a bathroom or the inner decoration of a home. Mood board: The final catwalk soundtrack of the show was ‘Just my Imagination’ by The Cranberries, a poignant musical accompaniment that reflected the diverse and antithetical references that inspired Katrantzou’s A/W 2018 collection. The designer referenced the graphic nature of Bauhaus, the ostentation of William Morris and the rich tapestries of wallpapers and tapestries at stately homes. Victoriana floral dresses in rich velvet came with graphic Bauhaus panels, graphic fake fur coats appeared evoked retro carpets and tailored trouser...Mood board: on the British fashion scene Margaret Howell has become a well known stalwart in expertly crafted utility dressing, building on workwear codes, organic tones and a touch of the school boy or girl in her repertoire. But it was new proportions and prints that got front rowers talking as they filed out of the brand’s regular show space at Rambert’s headquarters. Amongst well loved men’s and women’s classics in organic hues, like trenchcoats, mélange knitwear, plaid shirts and tweed tailoring, there came paisley prints in antique shades of pink, ochre and blue, baggy drop crotch trousers and outerwear in new proportions. Best in show: For women, a wax jacket came cropped and with a cinching narrow silhouette, and for men windbreakers came oversized and with loose collars or folded across the body with a utility belt. Think Margaret Howell for camping trips to outdoor pursuits. Howell also updated...Mood board: After returning to the London Fashion Week schedule three seasons ago, Roland Mouret has presented his collections at the National Theatre, the Brutalist masterpiece on London’s South Bank. For A/W 2018, Mouret returned to the location with a collection which looked past the body hugging sensuality that has come to define his woman, incorporating cocooning ornate outerwear, chic androgynous tailoring and modern sportswear. It was a collection bursting with fabrications, from go-faster chevron lace knits to floral tapestry jacquards and chintz, mannish corduroy to patent foil, incorporating capes and bomber jackets, bold asymmetric knits, ruffled skirts and alluring lurex detail blouses. Best in show: Mouret’s outerwear hit the high notes, and included a frayed belted coat in dandelion and maroon floral jacquard, a navy collared cape with sporty striped hems and a trench coat in plush pastel pink corduroy. The designer’s celebration of tailoring nodded to the technicality...Chicago continues its impressive restaurant boom. But what is perhaps most impressive about this rash of new venues is how much space they’re offering diners. To wit: Bellemore, local hospitality group Boka's latest, occupies a 6,000-sq-ft sprawl in the West Loop, and every inch of it is dedicated to a manor house fantasy unlike anything else you’ll see in the Windy City. Designed by local outfit Studio K, Bellemore is layered with so much texture that it never feels overwhelming. The central serving station, which is meant to mimic a traditional entry table, the Thoney and Bauhaus-inspired seating, and even the stuffed birds perched just above the marble bar evoke an old-world opulence. But the chevron column, the ‘millennial’ pink upholstery, and the strikingly dark owl-themed mural by artist Tracee Badway in the private dining room (which is outfitted with a glass bookcase that looks directly into the kitchen) ...Mood board: Hussein Chalayan has never been one to shy away from pressing sociopolitical issues. For AW18, the designer tackled the subject of immigration, and more specifically, the importance of integration. Titled Périphérique (or peripheral) the collection articulated a violent imaginary journey starting from centre of Paris to its banlieues – the suburbs which have come to define unintegrated immigration. What followed was a series of strong, sharp-edged tailored skirt-suits and high-necked blanket coats that gave way to softer, more liberated dresses, tunics and trousers in a placid palette. Show setting: Chalayan returned to Sadler’s Wells once again this season, presenting his runway show on a large white stage usually intended for contemporary dance performances. The venue was apt, given the carefully choreographed routine, which saw models circle and walk alongside each other, occasionally stopping as though being confronted or interrupted. A video showing a hazy winter’s journey around the...Scene setting: London-based Molly Goddard is known for her imaginative show sets, and this season was no exception. In the midst of a stark white room lined with benches and angular spotlights, stood two large cooking stations, baring bottles of red wine, working stoves and various bowls of delicious foodstuffs. As the sound of Snake Face’s gutsy Throwing Muses played, models casually sauntered down the runway, before stopping at their kitchen of choice to pour themselves a glass of wine, nibble on a carrot or simply have a chat with one of their taffeta-clad comrades. Mood board: ‘Goddard’s woman doesn’t get FOMO. In fact, she isn't too sure what it stands for’: teased the accompanying press notes. ‘Through multiple silhouettes she remains the same – straight-forward, uninhibited and comfortably over-dressed.’ This defiant clarion call echoed through the line-up of double-layered taffeta dresses, psychedelic tights and day-to-night skirts in brightly-coloured...Scene setting: Halpern tapped British set designer Shona Heath to transform a derelict house in Soho into an avant-garde show space, replete with floral arrangements and wrought iron furniture wrapped in hot pink cellophane. Graffiti tags and ripped posters littered the walls, floors and windows, while 1980s-inspired neon spotlights were projected onto the designer’s signature sequin looks as models descended the crumbling stairwells. A disco dystopia that was nothing short of fierce. Sound bite: ‘There is a real feeling of intensity in this collection, that was on purpose. I suppose it's a reaction to the time we’re living in right now. I feel like a broken record saying this, but my clothes are pure escapism – a cross between costume and fantasy. You could say its resistance dressing, not having to adhere to fashion codes. After all, what could be more daring than wearing sequins in broad daylight?’ –...Mood board: There was considerable progression to Simone Rocha’s poetic womenswear this season. In tulle aprons, tinsel-flecked tartan skirt-suits and sturdy loafers from which to make practical strides, Rocha’s woman gave the impression of confidence, strength and pragmatism. Even the lightest and most sultry of lace or tulle dresses were grounded by canvas utility belts with miniature pouches. A delicate flower? Think again. Best in show: A glossy olive trench coat with enlarged ruffle trims set the benchmark for outerwear, yet there was something beguiling about the nude tulle apron dresses, which this season Rocha had separated at the back and then tied together again using thick black grosgrain ribbons. This new design detail also carried across into jackets and voluminous skirts. Elsewhere, the designer’s own version of a power skirt-suit – rendered in shimmering black bouclé or vivid tartan – was a force to be reckoned with. Finishing touches:...Scene setting: A constellation of conceptual artworks pepped up an otherwise stark show space at JW Anderson this season. The pieces, including Martin Belou’s unusual Les Hors D’oeuvres (2017) sculptures (spun from plaster and shitaké mushrooms) and an untitled abstract painting by Graham Wilson set the tone for the collection, which was eclectic, upbeat and youthful. On guests’ seats sat A3-sized posters, badges and bookmarks that encouraged them to enter a competition titled: Your Picture, Our Future. Entrants would need to submit six original, unpublished images that ‘apply to the JW Anderson world’ to be in with a chance of shooting the brand’s next big campaign. A savvy social media move, if nothing else. Sound bite: ‘We’ve been going for ten years now, so I wanted to re-group and think about how to broaden the label in a really exciting way. So we’re now showing men’s and women’s clothing on...Time takes on mysterious and shifting forms during a fashion show. The event, which is usually over in a mere 15 minutes, represents past months of moodboard research, fabric sourcing and sampling, and rigorous catwalk production. It also simultaneously presents clothes which will be worn in the future. The concept of passing time was pivotal to Burberry’s February 2018 show, presented last night on 17 February at the Dimco Buildings in West London, as it also marked Christopher Bailey’s final outing for the brand, after an incredible 17 years at its helm. For his final runway outing, Christopher Bailey teamed up with United Visual Artists, presenting its large scale installation Our Time (2016), as part of his final catwalk show. The London-based art practice explores abstract concepts, like language, time and sensory perception in its large scale works, and have worked with institutions including The Barbican, the Seoul Museum of Art and YCAM...As portable speakers get smaller, headphones get beefier and radios get artificially intelligent, the burdens upon audio designers are becoming increasingly complex. They must balance visual aesthetic, connectivity and sound quality in ever more intricate ways. Its a delicate balancing act that designers have dedicated their workshops, exhibitions, and careers to. Last year, Design Museum Holon turned up the volume on the evolution of sound and visual design since the 1960s in a blockbuster showcase. Inspired by this, we asked a handful of the world’s leading sound-magicians for their take on the competing priorities in audio technology, and how they apply this to their products. Paul DePasquale, Tivoli AudioPaul DePasquale – vice president of Tivoli Audio’s design department – puts any changes in contemporary speaker design down to our shifting listening habits. ‘We’ve altered the way we consume audio,’ he explains. ‘There has been a sharp rise in streaming services and the appealing “convenience verses quality...In an ultra modern take on the chandelier, Sylvain Willenz's 'S5 Torch' for Established & Sons references both the torch and car headlights in its playful design. Combining a bundle of five black lights in varying sizes, each one bearing a grainy matt exterior surface, the bold light is a showstopping centrepiece and features a 140cm drop that is ideal for double height spaces. Available from WallpaperSTORE*The shine has barely worn off 2018, but it’s already proving to be a banner year for the Hong Kong-based designer André Fu. Fresh off his work on the new Andaz Singapore and a number of other high profile gigs already in the works, including the new Guo Fu Lou restaurant at the Murray Hong Kong, Fu has just unveiled the Pavilion Suites at The Berkeley. Over the past couple of years, the London institution has undergone several significant facelifts – the most recent being a new entrance and extensions by Robert Angell and Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners – but Fu’s sparkling two additions to the hotel’s signature suites collection have been one of the most highly anticipated. And it’s not difficult to see why. Several fifth floor rooms facing Belgravia have been consolidated into two sprawling suites, each featuring a large terrace and glass house. Dressed in soft...Ten years after opening Antwerp interior design store Magazyn, Thomas Haarmann has released a furniture collection under the same name. A sofa, armchair, lounge chair and living room accessories constitute the six-strong set. ‘It’s not loud, but if you feel the products and the finish, you realise that it’s not ordinary’, says Haarmann, noting how the pieces convey a luxury, yet minimalist aesthetic. Each piece features a slight play on its traditional form – the armchair is proportionally oversized to curl up in, the sofa is deeper to sink back into, and the loungechair quietly boasts a softened layer of leather to appear more casual despite its upright posture.This self-driving tour of mid-century churches around Palm Springs, new to the 2018 programme of Modernism Week events, presents participants the chance to learn about the town’s most interesting church architecture. Curated by Michael Kunkle, a Palm Springs local with a passion for mid-century modernism and his mother Ruth Ritter, who just moved to Palm Springs from South Carolina this year, the tour is a unique way to explore the town during Modernism Week. The tour allowed Kunkle and Ritter to combine their knowledge in a creative way; mixing Kunkle’s architectural and design expertise with Ritter’s experience of churches and religion – and it was a way for the pair to spend time together and build Ritter’s new community network in Palm Springs. ‘In addition to the fantastic architecture, we have learned that the church history here in Coachella valley is colourful: Indians, earthquakes, hardships, cooperation, support and inclusion,’ says Kunkle. First...This article originally featured in the June 2012 issue of Wallpaper* (W*159) In a business where a fraction of a moment; a tenth or a thousandth of a second, can make or break careers, lives, people – timing is everything. Since the first modern Olympic Games, in Athens in 1896, time measurement has been the pivot around which the event turns. It’s a serious job: serious timekeepers need to do it. A few watch brands have taken on the task in the hundred-odd years of the event’s history. Swiss motorsports timer Heuer, (it acquired the TAG prefix in 1985) was a natural partner in the 1920s, while Seiko had its Olympics heyday in the 1990s. But it is the Biel-based brand Omega that has had the most consistent link, and London 2012 marks its 25th outing as Official Timekeeper. It’s no mere brand-endorsement exercise, either: the pursuit of ever more...With Modernism Week in full flow, what better time to release a new tome that celebrates the desert haven of Palm Springs and its architectural allure. Design and architectural photographer Tim Street-Porter has previously contributed to many architectural volumes including L.A. Modern, Casa Mexicana, The Los Angeles House, Tropical Houses, and now he is honouring the mid-century marvels of Palm Springs. Street-Porter takes us on a tour of the hotbed of designs in the Coachella Valley in Palm Springs: A Modernist Paradise, offering up a gleaming catalogue of architectural jewels, from the landmark Tramway Gas Station (also know as the Palm Springs Visitors Centre) by Albert Frey and Robson C Chambers, to William F Cody’s minimalist glass house.Photography inside Palm Springs: A Modernist Paradise by Tim Street-Porter But Street-Porter doesn’t just chart the structure of these mid-century marvels, he peeks inside some of the masterpieces displaying details such as...‘The smallest things are always the most precious,’ says Marco Zanini. He is used to thinking big, engineering a string of successful brand relaunches, but in late 2016, Zanini downsized to design for artisanal shoemaker Santoni. On a sunless winter day, he arrives at Milan’s Casa degli Atellani – a Renaissance-era city landmark where Leonardo lived while painting The Last Supper – and opens the door to the whimsically deco apartment of the late architect Piero Portaluppi, which served as the inspiration for Zanini’s newest collection. Portaluppi was a key figure of early 20th-century Milan, and his style became part of the city’s fabric in buildings such as Palazzo Crespi, Villa Necchi and the Liberty-influenced renovation of Casa degli Atellani. Zanini, a remarkably tall man, passes through Portaluppi’s foyer, a room frescoed like an arboretum with fan palms, laurel, ivy and cactus, and takes a seat in the living...When Austrian architect and thinker Rudolf Steiner developed his philosophy of Anthroposophy in Germany at the turn of the 20th century, he soon came to require a place from which to spread its teachings of spirituality and science. Named after German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, whose works Steiner studied and revered, the Goetheanum was therefore born for this purpose on the rising slopes of the Jura Mountains overlooking the town of Dornach, Switzerland. One of the largest reinforced concrete buildings of its time, the Goetheanum has an enigmatic design that combines the charismatic volume of Gaudí, with the zeal of an Orthodox onion dome and the command of a Brutalist masterpiece.Photographer Estelle Hanania shot on location at the Goetheanum for Wallpaper* magazine's March 2018 issue Perhaps surprisingly, its form grew directly from its function as a venue for performance and learning. Steiner compared the Goetheanum to a shell...Fuzhou-born entrepreneur Ma Dadong could not have imagined that his humble plan to rescue the ancient trees and antique houses in his hometown from demolition would result in a 15-year conservation project that would eventually lead to them being relocated over 700km away. And he certainly could not have imagined that the initiative would be the impetus for Aman's newest property and one of the most intriguing hotel concepts we’ve seen in a long time. About an hour southwest of Shanghai, on 10 hectares of land now replanted with the 10,000 rescued camphor trees, Amanyangyun is the work of Kerry Hill Architects, who has restored and meticulously reassembled 26 of the 50 historic homes. 13 of these have been transformed into one or two-bedroom villas that sit majestically within an enclosed garden complex that comes complete with a private swimming pool and and a surrounding newly-built guest wing, available...It’s incredible to think that this light-washed 16th-century Venetian pile – immortalised in oils by Canaletto and Francesco Guardi – has lain mouldering for most of the past 70 years, its only occupant a solitary priest. A round of applause then for the palazzo’s new owners and Paris-based designers Anna Covre and Frederic Tubau who have parlayed career stints as creatives for the likes of L'Oreal, Coty, Armani and Beiersdorf to take on the role of interior designers for this striking serviced apartment project. The three suites – one of which is a three-bedroom apartment that opens into a bijou courtyard, though the entire palazzo can be rented for a party of nine – have been fully restored complete with original exposed timber beams, staircase, and windows. Covre and Tubau unified both rooms and public spaces under a colour palette of dark brown timber, white marble and pale hues...Located on the first three levels of a Midtown Manhattan’s 928 8th Avenue, Adjaye Associates’ Spyscape is part museum and part interactive funhouse, showcasing the espionage world’s stories, tools and characters and offering visitor challenges that range from surveillance skills to special ops training. Adjaye, which developed Spyscape’s architectural, exhibition, and even fixture design, worked closely with advisors like museum officials, former intelligence agency directors, and ex-hackers, creating a complex that immerses you in the mystery, intrigue, smarts, and subterfuge of spying. The multi-level museum’s labyrinthine exhibition spaces are organized around seven spy-related themes, including encryption, surveillance, deception and hacking. Within each you meet key characters related to the subject (like Robert Hanson, a notorious mole for the KGB, and Virginia Hall, the one-legged spy who fled the Nazis over the Pyrenees), peruse artifacts (like dominoes with tools hidden inside, spy plane cameras, and code-protecting Enigma Machines from WWII), and take...Textile company Block Shop – creator of the beloved Commune Wall mural at Ace Hotel in Palm Springs – has created a print-tastic capsule collection to ring in Modernism Week. Founders (and sisters) Lily and Hopie Stockman have been Ace guests since it opened nearly a decade ago, and have based the collection on holidays spent at the hotel. ‘It’s our favourite place to lounge, swim, and sleep,’ says Hopie. ‘The collection is an ode to the art of lazing poolside in the Palm Springs winter sun.’Detail view of the Commune Wall mural at Ace Hotel, Palm Springs. Courtesy of Ace Hotel & Swim Club Comprising a lightweight organic cotton robe, gossamer-thin pool wrap, and quilted linen throw, the collection is hand block-printed in modernist patterns. Throwing on the scarf feels like you’re wrapping yourself in a length of the mural. Its exactly the kind of cultural...Architecture is a perennial source of inspiration for jewellery designers. The Bangkok-born fine jewellery designer Patcharavipa Bodiratnangkura is just the latest to look at buildings for design cues, but from a refreshingly new angle. It’s not so much buildings, but rather material finishes that interest her – the soft, neutral tones of industrial fabrics and, in particular, the correlation between them and the organic design resources she gleans from her local environment, such as teak, coconut shells and gold. This year, she has succeeded in combining all of the above in a seriously minimalist home-town store by French architects Ciguë, creators of retail environments for the likes of Isabel Marant, Kris Van Assche and Maiyet, among others. Situated in the Ploenchit district of Bangkok, where Patcharavipa is mostly based (she divides her time between Bangkok and London), the eponymous boutique, to which the workshop is annexed, fulfils the jewellery designer’s...Scene Setting: Marc Jacobs has been upending the fashion show applecart these past few seasons. Instead of creating grandiose sets, he's favoured leaving his regular venue of the Park Avenue Armory bare in all its historic glory. This season, Jacobs sat guests in two long rows arranged down the middle of the grand hall. With stark spotlights shining down on models as they trod the bare floorboards, the scene proved to be as theatrical in its austerity as other high production settings. Mood board: the stark backdrop only served to amplify the 80s, power-packed collection Jacobs sent out. From highly exaggerated and enlarged silhouettes to the palette of unequivocal colours, oversized twists of fabrics including iridescent and flocked taffetas, velvet and warp-print satin, the extravagantly sculptural pieces was provocative fodder for the eye. The menswear influences were overt, but Jacobs still imbued some sensual touches, such as nipped in waists for...A year ago, a flatbed truck brought the contents of Albert Frey’s famous pre-fab Aluminaire house from a warehouse in New York, to a vacant lot in Palm Springs for a special ceremony marking its arrival (complete with the mayor and assorted archiphiles and patrons.) One year later, Modernism Week will host the unveiling of a full-size graphic display of the house – originally designed for the 1931 Allied Arts and Industry and Architectural League Exhibition in New York – that will reveal the next step for the well-travelled modernist gem. From the mountainous outpost of the 1964 Frey House II that gazes over a city in flux, you can see the new seven-storey Kimpton Hotel and retail development where an adjacent soon-to-be completed park will become the Aluminaire’s new home.Aluminaire house installed at its former location. Photography: Michael Schwarting More information about the park, designed by Mark Rios...Leave your laptop, smartphone and stylus at the door. Nestled on Orchard Street in New York’s Lower East Side, a small store specialises in what some might call a dying medium: pencils. The shop, CW Pencil Enterprise, offers wood-encased graphite in every imaginable size and colour, designed and made in countries around the world. After opening (somewhat ironically) online in 2014, founder Caroline Weaver opened a physical location in 2015 and has now moved to a new space, where the selection of pencils, accessories and stickers are displayed on shelves and within glass vitrines, appealing to both passerby and pencilophiles alike. One standout is Caran D’Ache’s Swiss-made neon pencils that are so bright they compete with highlighters. Other favourites include Eye Ball’s Japanese-made pencils; one style is sized and coloured like cigarettes and another has red graphite in the shape of a heart.Inside CW Pencil Enterprise For pencil purists...The denim industry is one of the most notoriously polluting in the world: we all have heard about China rivers turning blue because of chemical-laden indigo dyes and about the 7000 litres of water it takes in average to manufacture a pair of jeans. So hearing that G-Star Raw is launching its most sustainable Elwood RFTPi jean is a news that fills us with hope. ‘We have been working on this particular project for the past two years, but it’s taken a lot longer than that to get started and to find the right partners, the ones that would commit to accompany us every step along the way’, explains Frouke Bruinsma on a chilly Amsterdam morning in the uber modern OMA-designed G-Star Raw HQ. Frouke has been working with the company for the last 14 years, and founded the Corporate Responsibility department (which she directs) to create social development projects in the...The Polaroids taken from Robert Mapplethorpe’s early years in the Chelsea Hotel with lover and patron Patti Smith are going on show for the first time, detailing the beginnings of the soon-to-be famous photographer’s signature minimalist style. Holed up in Manhattan’s Chelsea Hotel, penniless and surviving off candy bars, Mapplethorpe would convince Smith to buy him Polaroid film. Once he had loaded the camera, he would take off, walking the streets alone. ‘We were both praying for Robert’s soul,’ Smith wrote in Just Kids, her 2010 memoir of their time together. ‘He to sell it and I to save it.’ A new exhibition is showing, for the first time, the Polaroids that Mapplethorpe took on those walks. Hand-selected from the archive belonging to the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation in New York, they shed light on a pivotal early phase of the photographer’s now iconic 20-year career. The exhibition, at...Few locations in Hong Kong better capture the spirit of modernism than the Murray Building. Built by British architect Ron Phillips, the 27-storey tower opened in 1969 as a government office. Soaring, unadorned arches at ground level and a gleaming white façade lent it a handsome, almost austere, appearance, while recessed windows and the concrete fins that separated them kept out the sweltering heat, and made the building a pioneer in sustainability. As such, it remained a widely admired landmark long after a concrete jungle sprouted in its vicinity. And once the government moved on to newer digs in 2011, it became a ripe opportunity for redevelopment. Enter local hospitality group Wharf Hotels, which acquired the building and enlisted Foster + Partners to transform it into first-rate accommodation. Named the Murray, the new hotel has opened to much fanfare, its 336 rooms and suites some of the most spacious in...Descend into the basement of Galeria Melissa in Covent Garden and you will find a room filled with unsettling red light, populated by life-size mannequins wearing strange masks. The environment seems to mimic a spa or a salon, but this room wants to unnerve you, rather than to make you feel rejuvenated or at ease. This is what the visual artist Juno Calypso aims to do with her work: seduce you with familiar images of beauty, femininity and sex appeal, and then unveil the uncanny lying within. ‘The Salon’, her latest exhibition, hosted by Melissa and featuring plastic shoes from the brand’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection, turns away from the self-portraiture photography that Calypso has previously worked with in favour of a full-bodied immersive installation, featuring a 3D rendering of her own body.Digital mock up of 'The Salon' exhibition at Galeria Melissa ‘The process takes three hours and you have...We’ve always had a soft spot for the Audi A8, the German company’s flagship saloon car. Yet in an age of mega-SUVs and Crossovers, the big saloon has become something of an anachronism, a throwback to an age when might and pomp signified status. Such cars were made to be driven in, not to drive, with the focus on extra legroom, reclining seats and an intentional disconnection from the dirty work of getting from A to B. All that has changed, and no modern car maker would dare release a premium product that didn’t offer the same level of exquisite attention detail to those in the front seat as well as the back. While the basic triumvirate of upper-level executive saloons – Audi A8, Mercedes S-Class and BMW 7-Series – has stayed essentially the same for three decades, there are now still a host of challengers, from Range Rover to...Scene setting: It was a playful, lighthearted affair at Michael Kors this season. The veteran designer invited guests to the Vivian Beaumont Theatre at Lincoln Centre for his runway presentation, but instead of being inside the theatre, guests were seated in the elegant Christopher Lightfoot Walker Lobby — which mixed white walls, concrete ceilings and polished brass, as designed by Eero Saarinen. With playbill posters printed with a joyful caricature of Kors on the cover, there was a clear carefree tone set from the get go. Mood board: With a heady dose of wallpaper florals, retro plaids, bright tracksuits and ladylike tailoring, Kors’ latest collection encouraged a youthful individualism. Mix and matched elements, like clashing prints, structure and loungewear, teamed with girlish hair accessories, extra long scarves and tweed rain hats, came together for a quirky look that wouldn’t seem amiss in the Upper West Side environs. Best in show: Filled with fun...Bringing together leading artists, writers, architects, musicians, filmmakers and other creative luminaries with the brightest young stars in their field, the Rolex Mentor and Protégé programme is an ambitious cultural exchange. Following on from our story in the November 2017 issue, three of the latest protégés reveal what mentoring has meant to them. Born in Peru, Pauchi Sasaki is a violinist, composer and performance artist whose work spans different styles and disciplines. She is a graduate of the Electronic Music and Recording Media programme at Mills College in California, and composes music for video, film, theatre, dance, and site-specific projects and installations. Her Rolex mentor is Philip Glass, a master of minimalist music and arguably the most popular classical composer alive today. W*: How have you and Philip Glass interacted over the year?Pauchi Sasaki: At the beginning, I followed him on tour around Japan, Europe, California and New York...Inspired by the architecture of Italy's many palazzos, GioBagnara's 'Palazzo' collection pairs one of the country's most famous raw materials — travertine — with 100% leather and nappa. This valet tray — designed by Stéphane Parmentier — comprises a sturdy travertine structure with a raised border, and is lined with supple leather. Featuring discreet rubber feet for grip underneath, the tray is ideal for holding watches, cufflinks, rings and other trinkets and accessories. Available from WallpaperSTORE*For three decades, the Wurlitzer building in Detroit’s Broadway Street – which Robert Finn had designed in 1926 to house the family’s musical inventory – lay abandoned, a somewhat wistful metaphor for the city’s fortunes. But now, things are looking up again. A block away, Woodward Avenue teems with interesting boutiques whilst the new Q-Line streetcar links the area to the Detroit Institute of Art and other midtown museums and galleries in minutes. Amidst this quiet rejuvenation, the Wurlitzer building has been refashioned by ASH NYC into a warmly furnished 106-room boutique property. Its mood becalmed in timber floors, white veined black marble, hues of pinks and oxblood, and plush angular furniture framed with shiny chrome, the retro-modernity of the whole is nicely balanced by the building’s original plaster detailing, travertine floors and terracotta signs. Unusually for a hotel so small, there are ten retail, food and beverage...The 1980s: the decade of decadence, power shoulders, big hair, big bucks and Generation X. As the biggest ad agencies of the era – among them Saatchi & Saatchi, the WPP group – ate up the smaller fish becoming huge conglomerates, and cable TV arrived, commercial culture began to cut its teeth. Meanwhile in New York, a group of young, gung-ho artists responded to the insatiable consumerism with art that both attacked and absorbed advertising aesthetics and its politics. Artists like Jeff Koons, Barbara Kruger, and Richard Prince, were at the forefront, often appropriating their material directly from adverts.Installation view of ‘Brand New: Art and Commodity in the 1980s’ at Hirshhorn Museum with New! New Too! (pictured right), 1983, by Jeff Koons, lithograph billboard mounted on cotton. © Jeff Koons Their approach quickly spread across the country and abroad. ‘What began as satire quickly grew to become a defining...City dwellers could soon become used to seeing more and more tall buildings made of timber. Engineered wood like cross-laminated timber (CLT) is being increasingly adopted by environmentally-minded architects. Some of the best and most experimental examples are on display in Roca London Gallery. ‘Timber Rising: Vertical Visions for the Cities of Tomorrow’, which runs till 19 May, features live projects like Waugh Thistleton’s Dalston Lane apartment block in London – the world’s biggest CLT building to date – and proposals such as Michael Green Architects’ Parisian tower. According to the show’s curators, engineered wood has the potential to answer many urgent urban needs: it would be a quick way of increasing housing stock; it’s sustainable; and studies show living in a timber building improves well-being. What’s more, being light-weight brings a myriad of benefits. It lends itself to urban densification as wooden structures can even be built on top of existing...‘Teller of stories’ Studio Aisslinger has lent its graphic design-eye to Kantini, a new concept eatery in Berlin. Headed up by local designer Werner Aisslinger (who once told me that he ‘tends to jump into new projects, whatever they are, head first’), the project is a mindbending mesh of foliage, furniture and frappuccinos. ‘Our studio has created a new typology of food market with design-forward stalls and an atmospheric experience that diners are bound to remember, and share online,’ he says. Creating Instagrammable restaurants, like Sketch in London and Odette in Singapore, is a trend that has spread globally over the last half decade, where the interiors aim to become social media-fodder as much as the food.Photography: Patricia Parinejad Photography Few strike the balance between social dynamite and design prowess as successfully as Kantini, however. Housed in the already photogenic concept shopping mall Bikini, (where Aisslinger also designed the 25hours Hotel) nature meets culture...Scene setting: the American Stock Exchange Building was transformed into a dystopian Surrealist vision of America for Calvin Klein’s runway show. Installed with an immense set featuring barnhouse doorways, with barn walls painted with artworks by Andy Warhol (a continued collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, which saw artwork printed underwear released earlier this month), scaffolding structures and a popcorn-covered floor, which all bore the hand of artist Sterling Ruby, the concept conjured up a pastiche of American pop-cultural references from the settting of horror films to praririe romances into a dream-like landscape. Mood board: to this, Raf Simons added a mash-up of American cultural tropes in wearable form. Working with a list of 50 words to represent each of the United States, the collection included chiffon prairie dresses in pastel picnic checks, Western yolk shirts with contrasting coloured accents, knitwear reverse stitched with familiar cartoon characters like Looney Tunes'...Mood board: it was a fitting finale for Jason Wu at Boss. In the five years since he took the reins as artistic director of Boss womenswear, Wu has successfully brought a fresh eye to the label’s suiting staples - a perspective that was especially palpable this season. Wu’s references to the minimalist artist Robert Morris, who was an inspiration for the season, took shape as more sculpturally shouldered tailoring, as well as dresses that skimmed the body. Combined with the use of menswear fabrics, and elegant detailing such as asymmetric panels and gently cascading pleats, the concise collection was a poetic finale to Wu and Boss’ union. Best in show: clean lines have always been a hallmark of Boss and Wu’s knack for breaking those lines has provided just the right amount of disruption that still loyally represents the brand. From high slits in shift dresses, to angular cutaways to...
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